1. Jongno 3-ga, Seoul


Ikseon-dong has long been a social media darling, with century-old hanoks housing thematic cafes and international restaurants. But in recent months, an after-dark revival driven by pochas (a type of late-night food stall) is bringing a new buzz to this maze of narrow alleys in Jongno 3-ga. Once a quick meal stop for office workers and labourers, the tented street stalls are now attracting crowds of young locals drawn by the affordable prices and unpretentious setting; you’ll see them start to gather at Donhwamun-ro 11-gil every day from 5pm. Then there’s Seosulla-gil, which shows off the calmer side of the neighbourhood’s renaissance. Once a quiet lane beside Jongmyo Shrine, it is now populated by independent craft workshops, jewellery studios and sophisticated bars. Equal parts laid-back and low-key, Jongno 3-ga maintains its charm by constantly reinventing itself for a new generation.
The perfect day: Start with fluffy steamed bread at Mil Toast. When the stores stir awake at 11am, wander the maze of shops selling perfume, clothes and eyewear. Lunch spots are many: try Solsot’s popular pot rice, or if you don’t mind a detour, Aiso serves incredible grilled hanwoo (Korean beef) patties. For an afternoon pick-me-up, Seoul Coffee serves some of the best cups of coffee in the neighbourhood, but Cafe SaSa is our go-to for pastries and tranquility. After picking out handmade jewellery at Seosulla-gil, stop for a craft beer at Seoul Gypsy before ending with dinner at the pochas serving tteokbokki (rice cakes) and ramyeon. Don’t worry if you have one glass too many – trendy Moxy Seoul Insadong is right next door, ready for you to stumble into bed.
Plan your trip: Parts of Jongno 3-ga are lined with ginkgo trees, making autumn the prettiest time to visit. Plus, the cool, crisp air is perfect for eating al fresco at the pochas.
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