The 12 best things to do in Chinatown

When the residents of L.A.’s original Chinatown were displaced and an effort arose to relocate it to its current spot in the 1930s, the Central Plaza was to be the neighborhood’s vibrant hub of activity. The neon-drenched square still attracts tourists and locals alike with its shops, restaurants and events such as Summer Nights and Chinatown After Dark. Local lore often credits the the backlot-like look of the area to Cecil B. DeMille, but it was in fact designed by the local Chinese community. There was, however, a Hollywood-backed (and highly orientalist) competitor named China City that burned down in the ’40s.

Today, you’ll find a mix of traditional and trendy shops, as well as buzzworthy spots like focaccia sandwich shop Frank ’n’ Frank’s, plus an upcoming L.A. location of astrology-inspired Brooklyn cocktail bar Mood Ring.

Far East Plaza looks unassuming from the outside, but step into the corridor of this pioneering multicultural shopping mall to find a mart overflowing with local character. It wasn’t so long ago that the most notable spot here was a two-story supermarket. These days, though, it’s all about the amazing food: hot chicken legend Howlin’ Ray’s, Filipino fave Lasita, coffee go-to Endorffeine and Alvin Cailan burger spot Amboy, among them. There’s also shopping: East West Shop sells curated vintage styles, and Now Serving boasts an unparalleled selection of cookbooks.

With 32 acres of open space directly adjacent to Chinatown, L.A. State Historic Park boasts an amazing view of Downtown. The park was once home to major events like FYF Fest and Hard Summer, but all went quiet with a major multi-year renovation that started in 2014. Upon its completion in spring 2017, the park redesign added drought-tolerant landscaping, a scenic overlook bridge and an orange grove—and, over time, the return of more and more large-scale events, including the spring edition of Renegade Craft Fair. On a sunny afternoon, order a milkshake from the on-site Cargo Snack Shack and take a leisurely stroll.

In business since 1908, Philippe the Original is one of two local spots that claims to have invented the French dip sandwich. Savvy customers select the traditional lamb or lighter turkey filling, then ask the server to double-dip the bread in the meaty juice; a French-dip sandwich is also incomplete without some of the sinus-clearing house mustard. The wines by the glass aren’t bad, a concession to the lunch trade from nearby City Hall.

While CAM’s address in El Pueblo might seem a little incongruous, its location is actually very appropriate. This was L.A.’s original Chinatown, and the Garnier building, in which part of the museum sits, is the most historic Chinese structure in the area: It was built in 1890, when Chinese immigrants comprised the majority in this part of town. It’s been home to a number of community organizations. Exhibits spotlight the history of L.A.’s Chinatown and the more general experience of Chinese Americans in the U.S.

Union Station may sit just on the outskirts of Chinatown today, but this plot of land was once the heart of Old Chinatown. (In fact, the original neighborhood was flat-out demolished to make room for the station.) Opened in 1939, it was the last of the great American rail stations to be built, at a cost of $11 million at the time. By 1971, just seven passenger trains were running here a day. Today, it’s a bit busier: The Mission-style exterior, marble floors, high ceilings and decorative tiles make it a handsome place for tens of thousands of travelers each day. However, don’t confuse it with the Spanish colonial post office that stands next to it.

This new live entertainment venue hidden in a warehouse between Chinatown and Mission Junction is the first West Coast project from tvg Hospitality, founded by Mumford & Sons’ Ben Lovett. Named after the L.A.’s historic Red Car railway system, Pacific Electric—which holds 750 people between the ground floor and a balcony—is filling up its calendar with genre-spanning concerts, club nights, comedy, conversations and cultural events. You can find the full upcoming lineup here. To eat, there’s a “Secret Indian Food Window” serving chicken tikka poutine and delicious street tacos from Badmaash. For drinks, there’s Mitsi, a seriously stylish sushi and sake bar upstairs, or Apothéke just a few steps from the venue.

Phoenix Bakery is known primarily for its cakes, whether you're celebrating a birthday, wedding or anniversary. Founded in 1938 by the Chan family, the bakery attracts sweet-toothed fans looking for their famous strawberry whipped cream cake, which is available daily by the slice (order 24 hours in advance for a whole pie). You'll also find traditional Chinese pastries (ask for the almond cookies!) and a selection of European goods, like eclairs, fruit tarts and cream horns. During the Mid-Autumn Festival season, Phoenix Bakery also makes seasonal mooncakes.

The hip-and-gable roof and meticulously crafted columns of the Thien Hau Temple stand out amidst the neighboring boxy condos and apartment complexes. You’ll find the Taoist temple at the center of activity with dance performances and firecracker displays around Chinese New Year. And though you’d never know it from the architecture, the building reopened in 2005 after it had been used as a Christian church in L.A.’s now-defunct Little Italy.

Discover Chinatown’s hidden spots—from a temple and herbal shop to an art gallery, antique stores and bargain shops—on this once-a-month, two-and-a-half-hour guided walking tour. Learn about the area’s rich history while navigating through vibrant courtyards, alleyways and plazas.

With loads of natural light and an industrial-chic feel, Highland Park Brewery’s Chinatown warehouse has become one of the go-to hangouts in the neighborhood. Picnic-bench-style seating provides a great place to perch while enjoying HPB’s newest beers, as does that prime patio across from Los Angeles State Historic Park—it just might be the closest thing to the neighborhood’s front lawn.

Across the street from the neon glow of Chinatown Central Plaza, the well-worn, Hollywood backlot-esque appearance of Chung King Road belies the cultural hipness of the pedestrian alleyway. Some of L.A.’s best art gallery spaces have set up shop behind the worn facades, and the area transforms into a frenzy of activity during Saturday night gallery openings. Don’t get too attached to any particular gallery, though; the area’s tenants constantly change as cutting-edge artists come and go.

Before the construction of Union Station, the area that’s now Chinatown was home to L.A.’s Little Italy—and this museum has taken up the mantle of recognizing that forgotten past. The Olvera Street-adjacent museum takes up residence in the restored Italian Hall, once a focal point of the Italian-American community from its construction in 1908 until the early 1950s. The collection includes some 6,000 artifacts, photos and documents that examine the history and contributions of Italian Americans in L.A.—including screen-used Marvel props donated by directing duo the Russo Brothers.