Julien C. Levy is a writer from New York City. His feature journalism has appeared in VICE, Inked Magazine, Thrillist, and Crimereads. His fiction has appeared in The Last Podcast on the Left, The Corvus Review, and Flash Frontier for which he received a Pushcart Prize nomination.

Julien Levy

Julien Levy

contributor

Articles (13)

The 15 absolute best margaritas in NYC

The 15 absolute best margaritas in NYC

Sure–celebrating Cinco de Mayo satisfies any South-of-the-Border craving, but why reserve the city’s best margaritas in NYC for just one day? It's always time for tequila, especially when shaken up with a hit of spice or swirled with sweet watermelon. Hit NYC’s best Mexican restaurants for some serious agave spirits, or down them alongside some of Gotham's best tacos. Fair warning, though: You're gonna want a pitcher.   RECOMMENDED: Full guide to cocktails in NYC Updated May 2025: We added Gueros Brooklyn, Fresco's Cantina, Oyamael and Superbueno. We removed the Black Ant as it closed, La Contenta, La Loncheria and Kokomo. 
The best beer gardens and beer halls in NYC

The best beer gardens and beer halls in NYC

When good weather breaks through the clouds, NYC has an abundance of things to do outside. In addition to parks and other outdoor attractions, we have a slew of rooftop bars and outdoor dining options to choose from. And some of the best bars in NYC fit into the beer garden and hall categories, ideal for those brief and beautiful moments when it’s neither too hot nor too cold, and only a crisp brew will do. These NYC beer gardens have everything you’d expect—outdoor tables, fun games, lovely music and, of course, thirst-quenching pints, many brewed on-site. Throw in some tasty snacks and you’ve got yourself the perfect afternoon. Whatever style of suds you prefer, NYC has an alfresco option for sipping a cold one on a gorgeous day. RECOMMENDED: Full guide to things to do outside in NYC
The very best bars on the Upper East Side

The very best bars on the Upper East Side

Not ready for the 6-train schlep, but not prepared to call the evening quits? If you're wondering where you should you go for that all-important, post-cultural-experience debrief or where to grab a sophisticated sipper or what your best option is for getting weird and spending a night out on the Upper East Side, we can help. I’m a lifelong New Yorker with roots on the UES—my dad grew up in a Yorkville tenement when it the area was still populated almost entirely by diasporic Europeans—and I’ve been a bartender in the city for well over a decade. So rather than abandon all hope ye who enter the UES, think of me as Virgil to your Dante. If you’re looking for the best bars on the Upper East Side and what to drink once you’re there, follow me and I’ll see you through. RECOMMENDED: The best restaurants on the Upper East Side
The 15 best bars in midtown

The 15 best bars in midtown

What are you doing in midtown? Seeing a show? Going to a meeting? Did you get lost? This is New York City, so people do actually live in midtown, which means it's an honest to goodness neighborhood. No every single bar therein is a tourist trap or pit of besuitted finance bros—some are just actually great bars proud to serve their (comparatively) little community.  The last time I went to midtown, I met a friend at Nothing Really Matters. I won’t spoil why the place is so special (read below!) but it was fun to watch my normally-jaded, native New Yorker buddy light up with excitement at how actually great that bar is—no qualifications. As a native myself, I got a real kick out of playing host in such an odd, scarcely-visited section of Manhattan isle. Below, you’ll find hotel bars, dives, cocktail meccas—a little something for everyone. It turns out midtown, like every neighborhood in this city, contains multitudes. Remember this: In a city as dynamic and disparate as New York, defying expectations set by neighborhood prejudice is a precious kind of currency. And on the other side of that coin is familiarity with the institutions that define a neighborhood’s identity. So pay attention to the places I’ve named below and next time you’re in the area (no matter the reason) you’ll be flush.   RECOMMENDED: See all of the best bars in NYC March 2025: We removed Five Acres and King Cole Bar and added As Is.
The 20 very best happy hours and cheap deals in NYC

The 20 very best happy hours and cheap deals in NYC

Every day across the five boroughs, food & bev establishments make their play to attract you—yes, you—with a few scant hours of cheap deals. We’re talking happy hour and, if you ask me, a native New Yorker with over a decade of bartending under my belt, there’s no reason to play hard-to-get. Maybe these bars and restaurants are trying to woo you with a few bucks off the top, a lagniappe on your order, an oh-so-special menu—a lot of places shoot their shot, but only a few really hit.  Look, if you’re content to hold off enjoying yourself until weekend evenings when nearly all of the best spots pack to the rafters and you’re paying through the nose to catch a buzz, knock yourself out. But if you’re smart, you’ll jump on an opportunity when you see it. To that end, below you’ll find some of the best happy hours across the city and the deals therein. Cocktailing, food, wine and beer, there’s a little something for everyone. Just keep in mind: once the word is out, no deal lasts (especially a great one) so don’t delay.  RECOMMENDED: Full guide to the best bars in NYC
The 14 best Irish pubs in NYC

The 14 best Irish pubs in NYC

Forget Boston—New York City’s got its own long-standing, deep connection with Ireland, its people and its culture and this necessarily includes public houses. But calling a bar an “Irish Pub” means different things to different people and all depends on what kind of experience you’ve got in mind. Maybe you’re on the lookout for an emerald-green kitsch fest, maybe you’re trying to get a touch of home in some peace and quiet. Whatever you’re after, we’ve got you covered. Am I Irish? Nope. Does my red coloring get me mistaken for Irish? Almost daily. Have I been drinking in New York City’s Irish bars for over 15 years? Indeed. Still, qualified though I may be, in my effort to bring you the very best, I felt it was important to recruit help from Irish expat friends and in-laws—the type of people who know how to have a good bit o’ fun but roll their eyes at the very mention of a shamrock. The result is what you’ll find below: an assemblage of places from cocktail meccas to dives, at almost every single one of which, you can get yourself a perfectly-pulled Guinness. RECOMMENDED: See the full St. Patrick's Day in NYC guide February 2025: We've updated this list ahead of St. Patrick's Day so that you've got the best pubs to plan your partying at. We added spots like The Dead Rabbit, Hartley's and Cronin & Phelan’s.
The best places to watch the Super Bowl in New York City

The best places to watch the Super Bowl in New York City

It’s that time of year again, New York City sports fans! That’s right: the game of games, the last NFL matchup until kickoff next September: Super Bowl Sunday is nigh.  This year’s contest will be fought in New Orleans, and, with a little planning, you can party like a pro in NYC, too, with wings, beer and nachos. If you're not into hosting or staying in, below, you’ll find recommendations for where to watch the Super Bowl at 6:30pm EST on February 9, with selections that suit every taste, in whichever borough you call home.  RECOMMENDED: Find more on the Super Bowl in NYC
The best bars in Queens

The best bars in Queens

Queens truly has everything. World-class museums, incredible food, beaches, parks, and major sports and concert venues just for starters. But while you’re visiting any of the above, it truly would behoove you to pop in for a drink at one of Queens’ many wonderful watering holes. We’re talking bars, and below you’ll find one for prettymuch every taste, from freaks to geeks and everything in between. Some are old, a lot are new, but all of them are proud to serve one of the most ethnically diverse locales in the world. RECOMMENDED: Best bars in NYC
The 45 best restaurants in Brooklyn

The 45 best restaurants in Brooklyn

Brooklyn’s culinary landscape is one of the finest in the world, hosting many of the best restaurants and bars in New York City and beyond. The borough has so many excellent pizza places, BBQ and brunch options, one could spend a lifetime trying them all. Our favorite 41 are a terrific place to start, including new additions Clover Hill, Koko's, Santo Parque and Diem Eatery.  RECOMMENDED: Full guide to the best restaurants in NYC
The best rooftop bars in Williamsburg

The best rooftop bars in Williamsburg

There are a lot of cool places to hang out on the streets of New York City’s perennial cool-kids-table, Williamsburg, Brooklyn. But once the sun goes down, what figuratively and quite literally elevates the cool factor is taking things above street level. Three words: Williamsburg rooftop bars. Yes, friends, if you know where to go and play your cards right, you and your squad can win summer by dancing, drinking, and/or vibing out amid rooftop breezes and vistas. And while New York City has seemingly no shortage of truly world-class rooftop establishments across its five boroughs, what you’ll find below are the coolest sky-facing bars within Williamsburg’s densely-packed 2 square miles. If you’re looking for breezy fun with ready-made photo ops of NYC’s iconic skyline, we’ve got you covered. So double-check the weather forecast and the L train’s status, without further ado, here are our top picks for Williamsburg’s rooftop bars RECOMMENDED: Full guide to the best bars in NYC
The 16 best Japanese restaurants in NYC

The 16 best Japanese restaurants in NYC

NYC's Japanese restaurant landscape is rich with ever-growing, ramen, izakaya and Michelin-starred sushi destinations, among many other offerings. The best include casual affairs, grand experiences and some that split the difference. Whatever your preference, these are the finest options for all of that and more right now.  RECOMMENDED: Full guide to the best restaurants in NYC
The 16 best Korean BBQ restaurants in NYC

The 16 best Korean BBQ restaurants in NYC

Of all the amazing restaurants in New York City, Korean barbecue destinations are particularly fun. Typically DIY, and always at least a little interactive, they're even more exciting with a group. Whatever your level of skill on the grill, the top KBBQ spots in town always come in hot with fresh, firey meats with tingly seasonings and sauces that you can cook exactly to your liking.  In Koreatown, Flushing and beyond, you’ll find swanky experiences and lower-key options, each with all the standards, hot pots and family-style dishes that Korean BBQ is known for. These are the very best in NYC right now.  RECOMMENDED: Find more of the best restaurants in NYC 

Listings and reviews (59)

Gallaghers Steakhouse

Gallaghers Steakhouse

Gallaghers is famous for a few things: their prime rib, visible dry-aging meat locker and history. But maybe most of all, Gallaghers is famous for being Gallaghers.  Picture the “classic New York City steakhouse.” Burgundy booths, white tablecloths, the smell of rendering beef fat; the sound of murmured voices, clinking glasses, Frank crooning. You’re at Gallaghers. The only blanks to fill in are the gorgeous horseshoe bar, visible dry-aging locker, and the kinetic energy emanating from the open kitchen. Once you’re actually there, it’ll become clear that the room isn’t frozen in time—the place has seen a few remodels and updates. Still, that old school essence wafts like so much grill smoke. You can get any cocktail you want as long as it’s a classic, which is what we’re looking for in a place like this anyway. Seasoned bartenders all but guarantee that your martini arrives finely-tuned, ice cold, and, providing you’ve made your vision clear, precisely the way you like it. The wine list is long and well-deserving of a study, but you can also trust your savvy server to make a suggestion. Gallaghers is one of the only steakhouses in the city that charcoal grills its meat, imparting a beautiful hint of smoke and char you can’t easily find elsewhere. Rumors of an out-of-sight sous vide circulator are a testament to the excellent cookery going on. If they’re not sold out for the day, order the prime rib. Trust us. Fatty, unctuous, it melts in the mouth. Even if you’re SOL on that
Gage & Tollner

Gage & Tollner

4 out of 5 stars
Any restaurant contending with legacy must reckon with change; how to respect the past while articulating a vision for the future. Overzealous revision can exorcise a place’s spirit. Reluctance to adapt can precipitate a slump into complacency. In the case of Downtown Brooklyn’s nearly 150-year-old steakhouse, Gage & Tollner, a new generation of owners–Sohui Kim, Ben Schneider, and St. John Frizell–have navigated the dilemma with finesse. That it’s virtually impossible to discern which elements were added from whatever was uncovered or restored is a testament to the design’s overall effectiveness. Touches recall the restaurant’s Gilded Age founding, but overall, the handsome decor feels timeless.  The cocktail menu is sharp as a straight razor, each of the menu’s classics executed with clarity, sincerity, and precision. Beer-wise, there are some local craft brews on tap and a nice selection of bottles. The wine list is extensive, so put your would-be sommelier friend to work. The Caesar salad inaugurating our meal was, in a word, terrific. And chef Sohui Kim’s most overt menu nod to her Korean identity, Clams Kimisino, was a favorite of the night: the little jewels topped with golden breadcrumbs tossed in bacon/kimchi butter. Perfectly temped to a honeysuckle pink, the NY strip was finished with an herb and garlic butter-baste whose perfume lingered between bites. Far from an afterthought, the sides—creamed spinach and butter-roasted hashbrowns—rivaled the steak for my affect
Old Homestead Steakhouse

Old Homestead Steakhouse

3 out of 5 stars
A fixture of the Meatpacking District since back when that neighborhood’s moniker was merely an unimaginative descriptor, Old Homestead is precisely what you think it is. As such, there’s a comfort in knowing—from the name alone—what it offers before setting foot inside.  According to the restaurant’s site, Old Homestead’s co-owners, “…will be the first to admit that not much has changed…since their family took it over 70 years ago.” Indeed, the palette of auburn, bronze, and chestnut dates the triple-decker establishment’s last refresh circa 1950. If this carpet could talk, it would wheeze. But the room is tidy and comfy and there are pretty stamped-tin ceiling recesses.  The servers are pros. Highly capable, quick, and friendly while forgoing any syrupy ingratiation. Reluctance to let much time pass without offering service is a type of efficiency that, considering the restaurant’s location in a tourism nexus, is wholly unsurprising.  The menu features a handful of cocktail classics with little to no mixological faffery. Who needs it when the old school Moscow Mule and Old Fashioned were both precisely as expected? There is a wine list and a few beers on offer as well, but those remain unexplored.  The meal started with a crab cake the size of a mason jar lid–delicious with discernible hunks of crab meat. It arrived in period costume: encircled by halved cherry tomatoes, atop squiggles of balsamic and some kind of tartar sauce. An order of “tempura” shrimp was actually just
Grand Army

Grand Army

4 out of 5 stars
Grand Army is a neighborhood cocktail and oyster bar. Whether the evening in question calls for casual drinks or serious cocktailing, light raw bar fare amid steamy summer vespers or a cozy crackling fireplace amid a winter chill, a night out with friends or with a date, Grand Army fits nearly any bill with aplomb.  Airy and inviting, the room isn’t huge, but pockets of privacy are easy to find. There’s ample seating with tables scattered throughout and plenty of spots at the pretty wraparound bar, plus outdoor tables when weather allows. The vibe is neighborhoody–with local art and photographs on every wall, including the bathroom, one might even say ‘Brooklyn-y.’ But, to be clear, that’s in the best possible way. While it doesn’t rely on schtick, Grand Army’s cocktail program plays with theme. In the past, clever, inventive menus have referenced the MTA, honky tonk, game shows, Mean Girls, and Nicolas Cage (just to name a few)—each with their own suite of entirely new concoctions to suit the motif. In this way, return visits promise both fidelity to what makes the bar inviting in the first place and the kind of novelty that gently encourages exploration. Also available are a healthy selection of craft beers on tap (approximately $12), a variety of easy-drinking bottles and cans ($4–$12), and a curated collection of wines by the glass ($16) or bottle ($64).  With emphasis on the excellent raw bar, Grand Army’s food is mostly cold and mostly seafood, with a privileged place r
Sunken Harbor Club

Sunken Harbor Club

4 out of 5 stars
If buzzy nouveau old-school chophouse Gage & Tollner is downtown Brooklyn’s flagship, tiki bar Sunken Harbor Club aims to be its captain’s quarters. Through G&T’s entrance, an unmarked door and up one flight, SHC is not only a major shift in tone from its sister restaurant, but in sensibility–less Don Draper thoughtfully sipping an Old Fashioned than Captain Jack Sparrow bellowing about rum. Sunken Harbor Club commits to the tiki-bar-in-a-sunken-ship bit bow to stern; fog machine fore and sultry mermaid painting aft. The themey light fixtures phosphoresce just enough for guests to appreciate the nautical ephemera and Hawaiian shirts worn by every member of the welcoming staff, not to mention the pretty drinks. In what may be the single conceptual link between the Sunken Harbor Club and Gage & Tollner, restrained innovation is buoyed by skillful execution. SHC put their spin on almost every tiki favorite, plus a selection of more novel but not bananas concoctions (unless you’re literally into bananas, in which case they’ve got a house-made liquor for you), all of which are tasty. The menu is arranged in ascending alcoholic potency, so it’s easy to chart your course. And by limiting most items to three or four key elements, pretension is thrown overboard in favor of fun. Prices float in the $20 range but that number ebbs and flows. There are also a few options for wine and beer, and yes, SHC has its very own short list of tasty finger food (e.g., sliders, shrimp toast, oysters)
Jimmy’s Corner

Jimmy’s Corner

3 out of 5 stars
This boxing-themed dive bar is certainly more colorful than its Times Square brethren. Adam Glenn enshrines his father's legacy, late owner and renowned boxing coach Jimmy Glenn, as mirrors are still plastered with photos of his right-hook big shots. These days, it’s magazine honchos, not KO kings, who slum it here. The joint ain’t fancy—the full bar is standard, four beers are on tap and there’s soul on the juke—but it covers the basics just fine. The vibe: Divey, with boxing ephemera all over. This is old-school New York–it evokes classic 70s films. The drink: Simple, straightforward. Beers, glasses of wine, mixed drinks from the well. If you want something more involved, the bartender can handle it but this isn’t really the place for that.  Time Out tip: As your coach, we’d advise you to stay nimble; rather than throw haymakers all night, stick and move with a beer and shot, vodka-soda, cider on ice–one-two combos that may not be fancy but get the job done.
UES

UES

There's much more that meets the eye at this ice cream shop on the Upper East Side (get it?). Head to the back of the pint-sized store, ask to see the "storage room," and enter a secret cocktail bar with uptown-inspired drinks, like "Gossip Girl on the East" and "Absolutely Bradshaw."  The vibe: Gloaming atmosphere. Roaring '20s-inspired ephemera a la Pee Wee’s Playhouse. Kitschy but fun. The food: Light bites i.e. dino nuggets and a full-compliment of scoop shop favorites. The drink: Fun, tasty, expertly made cocktails with NYC-centric names. Ice cream features heavily. The 2nd Avenue Subway was a citrusy wakeup call of Luxardo, blood orange, and sparkling wine.  Time Out tip: Ask to see the storage room. Cocktail attire is required for entry–doesn’t matter how trendy you are. No t-shirts, no Doc Martens, no ripped jeans.
2nd Floor at  2nd Ave Deli

2nd Floor at 2nd Ave Deli

This old-school Jewish establishment adds a bar upstairs, serving creative cocktails and noshes of its classic deli grub in a warm, worn-in space with a tin ceiling and old Yiddish posters. The vibe: Beautifully appointed with dusky, handsome vintage styling. It eschews pretension but still keeps things feeling upper-crusty New York. The food: Boards piled high with pastrami, pickles, and beef tongue; pumpernickel, smoked fish, and spicy mustard. You want to arrive hungry for the full effect. The drink: An inventive cocktail program with seasonal specials. A nice selection of both wine and beer are available, but this place wants to cultivate an experience so let the bartenders ply their trade and mix you something fun.  Time Out tip: Go at happy hour any day between 5pm and 7pm when $29 (plus tip!) buys you half of a rib-sticking deli sandwich from downstairs plus any house cocktail. My favorite permutation is Pastrami on rye alongside a Badlands: a spicy spin on a Manhattan.
Jones Wood Foundry

Jones Wood Foundry

The more refined side of British booze culture is reflected at this UES gastropub, helmed by veterans of Orsay and Raines Law Room. Retire to the main dining room—featuring a wraparound button-tufted banquette, caged Edison lightbulbs and dozens of volumes of Shakespeare—for a full menu of soups, savory pies (steak and kidney, rosemary lamb) and mains, including Lancashire hot pot and bangers and mash. Come spring, the dressed-up tavern will offer afternoon tea service—complete with scones, seasonal jam and clotted cream—in the building's garden atrium. The vibe: Comfy/cozy like an old cable-knit sweater or pair of slippers. The food: Delicious, well-realized Brit-centric favorites.  The drink: No liquor, but a huge tap selection and a rotation of hand-pumped cask ales. Time Out tip: If you’re a footie fan, this is an excellent spot to get in the spirit. It’s a pub, yes, but it’s really more about the food and this is a really charming place for casual lunch or dinner. Daily specials are fun and include England’s national dish–Chicken Tikka Masala–on Mondays, but as far as I’m concerned, Saturday/Sunday Roast is the move.
The Penrose

The Penrose

3 out of 5 stars
The Upper East Side has its share of low-key gems (Torishin) and crown-jewel restaurants (Daniel), but verifiable hot spots? There are few. The idea of a hobnobbing scene in Manhattan’s stuffiest zip code seemed laughable a few years ago—as likely as an electrodisco party in Greenwich, Connecticut. But the Penrose—named for a neighborhood in Cork, Ireland, where two of the owners grew up—is finally bringing a bit of the indie-chic East Village to Gossip Girl territory. Operated by the gastropub specialists behind the Wren and Wilfie & Nell, the joint would be run-of-the-mill farther downtown, where the trifecta of reclaimed wood, craft pours and pedigreed pub grub long ago joined the ranks of food-world clichés. But it’s a welcome change up here, where the only other option in a ten-block radius is Jones Wood Foundry, and locals have responded in droves. Step inside and it’s easy to see why the handsome joint was an insta-hit—antique lights cast a golden glow over a long, curving bar in the front room, while elegant patterned wallpaper and aristocratic framed portraits decorate nooks in the back.   The vibe: A place for millennials who’ve grown up and made good, and don’t feel like riding the subway for a whiff of the Brooklyn vibes that defined their 20s.  The food: There’s plenty of your gastropub favorites but the Chorizo Crunch Wrap Supreme is exactly what you think it is and available until 2am. The drink: 11 tap beers, an extensive NA cocktail selection, and signature c
Brandy’s Piano Bar

Brandy’s Piano Bar

If a beer-soaked watering hole doesn’t relax you after a long week at the office, this UES piano bar just might. The exuberant musician on the creaky upright bangs out favorites ranging from Bette Midler to Les Miz, while the weathered cocktail waitress darts between the bar and cramped tables. Boozers may be tempted to sing along; boost your courage with a powerful martini, a dollar off during happy hour (4–8:30pm). The vibe: The room and bar both are utilitarian. It’s all about the piano and whoever’s got the mic. The thing is, when you’re here, you may just witness a Broadway performer belting out a ballad or tickling the ivories–they not only come here to hang out, some of the staff are performers in their own right. The drink: No specials, no cocktail list. Just a few beers, a full bar, and a game bartender who can whip up just about anything you throw at them. Time Out tip: There’s a two drink minimum. If they solicit requests, try one. The piano players are world class and, if they know/like the song, they may just give it a shot. Also, tip the performers.
Caledonia Scottish Pub UES

Caledonia Scottish Pub UES

Upper East Side regulars can get a taste of the Highlands at this Scottish tavern, pouring 180 varieties of Scotch and other whiskeys. Along with dark spirits (Glen Garioch, Old Pulteney and Caol Ila), Scots suds—including Bellhaven IPA and Fraoch Heather Ale—are on offer at the glossy wood bar. If the maps and tartan flags hanging on the walls don't drive home the pub's Scottish pride, the menu of sausage rolls and Scotch eggs should do the trick. The vibe: Cobblestone floors and dusky environs–the whole vibe is meant to evoke an Edinborough pub sans kitsch or pretense. The food: Small plates like sausage rolls and scotch eggs–nothing fancy but great when drinking. The drink: So. Much. Scotch. There’s also nice cocktails, beers, and wine. Time Out tip: There are house rules you’d do well to observe: There’s no such thing as the best whiskey. 5% discount for Tinder dates (with proof). Do NOT close your tab after each drink, you Gen Zers. Don’t ask for free drinks–it’s gauche and annoys bartenders. Fellas: respect women or get the boot.

News (1)

An open letter from an NYC bartender to the people of New York

An open letter from an NYC bartender to the people of New York

Dear New York City Bar Patrons, It’s me, your trusty bartender. We need to talk about our relationship since COVID. For a few of us, bartending is a career; maybe even a calling. For the rest, it’s a job. Regardless of the motivation, there’s no denying that the way we turn a buck occupies a unique space in American culture. “We work in a very interesting industry where, yeah, it’s all about fun. But, y’know, in that fun, there’s a lot of risk,” says Dan, 37, who is a 20-year service industry veteran and manager/owner/cocktail wizard at West Village spot, Bandits. “You have to look out for people as a bartender.” But COVID flipped the world upside down. That includes us. “One of the first rules [bartenders] always hear is, ’no politics, no, religion in a bar,’” Dan says. “That went out the window because we were forced to kind of be the liaisons of the rules.”   Photograph: Julien Levy | George bartending at Double Windsor Almost overnight, we were effectively deputized COVID compliance officers, shoved onto the front lines. “That created definitely a weird balance where we were forced–or asked to–police our customers a little extra in order to keep the liquor license,” Dan says. Caught between a deadly virus, the government’s inchoate mandates (some of them arbitrary and punitive), our bosses, and you, norms of affability and commiseration had to take a back seat. “We’re here to serve, but we’re nobody’s servant. Don’t agree? There’s the door.” “We used to call it lifegua