Entering Paradise Lost is like tumbling through a portal, arriving in a bar located in Pee-wee Herman’s nightmare… in the best way. It’s an upscale psychobilly tiki lounge with well-realized design, good music, and a massive menu of well-crafted cocktails.
Despite the staff’s uniform of ripped-denim vests, the bar functions much like many other upscale cocktail establishments, i.e., it doesn’t take reservations, has standing room only, and doesn't pull pints of cheap domestic beer. As such, comparison to a dive would be disingenuous, but compared to New York’s other upscale cocktail bars, the place has a decidedly punk rock attitude. The “tropical hellscape” aesthetic does, anyway. The staff are welcoming and laid-back. And the menu is well-organized with clearly labeled ingredients, allergens, and intoxication factors.
Drinks are mostly rum and fruit-forward. But outside of the standard tiki classics, the menu is populated by cheeky inventions featuring out-of-the-box ingredients like the Chaos Magick, featuring rum, coffee, pineapple, and ras el hanout. This complex, fragrant, and totally novel concoction packs a punch. Many cocktails arrive smoking, aflame, or topped with kitschy toy garnishes. Commitment to camp allows the cocktailing to take big wacky swings and makes each visit feel whimsical. The food plays it much safer with tasty, if not expected, sandwiches and finger foods. Then again, Spam musubi is always welcome.
Prices are in special-occasion territory and keeping it there feels about right. But you’ll almost certainly want to return for another spin around the menu.