Jinx

Mumbai's a hamster wheel on high speed – and often, it feels like you've got to match her stride or get off and go home! It's the city that never sleeps, never pauses; everyone's always in a rush, all the time. Mumbai's also not the greenest urban city in India, making for less opportunities to slow down, but art galleries, it turns out, rise to the occasion instead, offering a rare moment of respite. They're a haven for art lovers, of course, but they're also supremely accessible. They're a chance to look at Mumbai through the lens of her trysts with contemporary artists, but they're also a chance to wander through quiet spaces uninterrupted, or strike up a conversation where otherwise, you'd have to rely on a dating app.  While its roots stretch back to the 1850s, back when she was still called Bombay, the art scene has since flowered into a tree laden with low-hanging fruit. There are art galleries older than your ma, and galleries that seem to have sprung up overnight – and they've all got something for everyone. Here are seven of the best. I promise they'll change how you view the city – even just a little bit.

Someone's got to say it: Mumbai's an expensive city. Mumbai, incidentally, also happens to be a city of drinkers. And that goes hand in hand sometimes. The city’s home to some of the best upscale bars that have placed highly on award lists in India and even Asia, but sometimes, you just want to get a drink without burning a hole in your pocket. So where do true-blue Mumbaikars go when they really just want to drink? Dive bars, of course. Spots that have stood the test of time not only because of cheap drinks, but also thanks to their radical refusal to cave to glossy decor and fancy avant-garde menus. You probably won't find cocktails here, but cheap beer, simple spirits, and a general sense of community-driven hilarity fight the good fight on weekday and weekend nights alike.  This is why they're not a haven for just locals. They’re places where you can make buddies with just about anybody. You can even throw up in the loo with zero judgement. In the guide below, we’ve sorted the good from the bad. You and your wallet are in safe hands.

Few things in life are as great a unifier as live music. One moment, you're standing next to a complete stranger, awkwardly waiting for the set to roll out. The next moment, you're headbanging in sync with them to a godly guitar riff. By the end of the night, you're probably a) drunk and b) have made a new friend.The live music scene in Mumbai is, admirably, pretty diverse. If going nuts in a mosh pit isn't your idea of a good time, acoustic gigs can be the chatty friend that introduces you to other introverts. Hindustani jugalbandis are often doorways to great conversation about the dying art of Indian classical music, and jazz nights almost always end up doing for you what the latest dating app failed miserably at.  So whether you fancy discovering a new singer flying under the radar, a heated debate on Kishore Kumar versus Mohammed Rafi, or watching a bragging competition play out on stage between a drummer and saxophonist, Mumbai's got it all. In this guide, I've put together the greatest venues in the city that host the best gigs and, mercifully, back up the whole show with world-class sound systems. 

Opened in 1958, Maratha Mandir was designed as a ‘Picture Palace’ – a place that brought palatial grandeur to the masses, matching the massive dreams being projected on the screen with an equally grand building. Walking into the lobby will send you back several decades. It was a feat of mid-century engineering back then, designed to hold over a thousand people at once. The ceilings are high, every whistle and cheer from the crowd is amplified because of the building’s architecture, and there’s an air of communal energy you won’t find at modern multiplexes.  There’s a bunch of things about the theatre that award it legendary status in the city. You can’t talk about Maratha Mandir without mentioning the Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge phenomenon, for instance. The film’s been playing here every single day for nearly 30 years now – it’s a world record that turned a simple matinee into a rite of passage.  The balcony’s also a symbol of instant recall. No premium leather recliners here because the balcony’s got the best views in the hall. The Grand Proscenium’s another cool feature – the towering frame around the screen was specifically designed, back then, to make the actors look like gods. And you can’t miss the 1960s canteen. It’s humle, it’s vintage, and it still serves up the movie-day popcorn vibe that generations of cityfolk grew up with.  Time Out trivia: Maratha Mandir once famously hosted a premier of the epic Mughal-e-Azam in 1960, where the film print was actually delivere

Eros Cinema’s been commanding the busy junction at Churchgate since 1938. A monument dedicated to Streamline Moderne – a phase of Art Deco that was obsessed with the romance of travel, speed and a futuristic city – the cinema’s distinctive V-shaped stepped tower structure makes it an unmissable stop on an Art Deco tour of Mumbai. In fact, not too many people know that it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site.  It was, of course, envisioned as the complete entertainment magnet when it was commissioned by Parsi businessman Shiavax Cawasji Cambata (and designed by architect Shorabji Bhedwar). And indeed, crossing the threshold’s a deliberate step back into more glamorous days. The marble foyer featuring black and white floors accented with gold, the symmetrical winding staircases flanked by gleaming handrails, the bas-relief murals that depict the actual process of filmmaking – everything about the cinema’s designed to impress. Even the exterior plays a theatrical role, with the famous ziggurat profile looming large, its tiers mimicking an ancient temple. It’s a clever design trick best appreciated from across the street.  The cinema was refurbished to offer totally modern services inside, despite the old-world charm of the exterior. Expect state-of-the-art IMAX technology, new retail spaces, eating joints and more.  Time Out trivia: The cinema once famously hosted the legendary Alfred Hitchcock for a premier of Master of Suspense in the 1950s. 

Legend has it that Lord Ram (of the Hindu epic Ramayana), tired while searching for his kidnapped wife Sita, asked his brother Lakshman to bring him some water. Lakshman then shot an arrow (baan) into the ground, causing a tributary of the Ganga to spring forth – and thus created what today’s known as Banganga Tank. The tank’s a stark contrast to the high-rise glamour and frenetic pace of South Mumbai, the neighbourhood it’s located in. Built in 1127 AD by Lakshman Prabhu, a minister in the court of the Silhara kings of Thane, it continues to be an essential node in the city’s spiritual lifeline, with hundreds of devotees still performing rituals there and taking holy dips on its ghats. The layout, with the surrounding temples, only accentuates the rippling water in the tank.  The air here is usually thick with the aroma of incense, the sound of temple bells, and the chanting of priests. The colourful old houses and murals on the narrow lanes, owned and managed largely by the Gaud Saraswat Brahmin Temple Trust, serve as a living, chaotic scrapbook for the city’s enduring traditions. 

This one’s for the geology nerds. Head over to the suburbs in Andheri, and you'll find Gilbert Hill. No, seriously, you can’t miss it – it's a massive, vertical wall of black basalt rock, standing about 200 feet tall, looking like someone carved a giant cake of lava. Why is it special? Because it's 66 million years old. It formed during the same volcanic action that created the Deccan Traps when molten lava squeezed up and solidified into these weird, vertical columns. This type of geological formation, characterised by precise columnar jointing, is exceptionally rare on a global scale. Experts say there are only a couple of other formations like this in the whole world, like Devil’s Tower in the US. This rock solidified during the Mesozoic Era, around the time the dinosaurs were facing extinction. The fact that Gilbert Hill survives today in the commercial heart of Mumbai's suburbs makes it even more of a geological anomaly. While it was designated a Grade II heritage structure in 2007 and a National Park earlier, the hill’s conservation remains a continuous battle. The constant pressure of urban sprawl, with apartments and shanties built right up to its base, has led to encroachment and erosion, weakening the structure that has stood for millions of years.  To truly grasp its uniqueness, one must climb the steep, carved steps leading to the summit. Up here, you find the small Gaodevi and Durgamata temples, which have inadvertently become its guardians, as local devotees are

Two or three things in Mumbai offer immediate recall to the city: the sea view from Marine Drive, the kaali-peeli taxicabs, and the Gateway of India. The giant, majestic four-pillared monument of yellow basalt's undoubtedly one of the pride and joys of the city. Built in the Indo-Saracenic style, it utilises the best of Indian and Islamic architectural features, but with a British colonial flair, standing at a cool 26 metres in height. It's utter chaos, of course. You've got people scrambling to recreate pictures they've seen online, the ocean breeze blowing away wisps of hair covering balding men’s heads, and the magnificent Taj Mahal Palace Hotel standing right across the street, completing that iconic Mumbai postcard view. The arch was envisioned as the 'grand entrance' to India, and as the inscription there declares, it was built to commemorate King George V and Queen Mary’s arrival. The foundation of the monument was laid on 31st March 1911, George Wittet’s design was sanctioned in 1914, and the construction was completed in 1924. Ironically, decades later, it became the place where the very last British troops marched out in 1948, going from being a symbol of their entry to being the site of their final exit. There are five jetties near the Gateway of India. The first one is exclusive to the Bhabha Atomic Research Centre (BARC) and not for public use, the second and third are public jetties to get to the Elephanta caves, the fourth is closed, and the fifth is reserved f

Built in the Art Deco style that characterized much of South Bombay's construction boom in the 1930s, its facade, with its streamlined curves and geometric ornamentation, offers a stunning contrast to the Indo Saracenic architecture of the historical fort area. The cinema was the city's very first air-conditioned picture hall and the first building in Bombay to employ an elevator and have underground parking. It was inaugurated in 1933 and quickly became a landmark, ushering in a new era of glamorous movie-going experiences. Commissioned by Framji Sidhwa and designed by the architectural firm of C.W. Longley, the cinema's interior was crafted by Czech artist Karl Schara, giving it a distinct European flair. Stepping inside, you are immediately transported to a bygone era. The sweeping staircases, and the elaborate lighting fixtures, which once included a massive, multi-hued projector lamp chandelier, speak to the luxury and grandeur that defined early 20th-century entertainment. Look out for Art Deco elements like: Bold sunray cubist motifs in pale orange and jade green in the main auditorium. Intricate mirror work in the lobbies. An Oscar trophy etched onto a mirror panel on the staircase, paying homage to its long association with Hollywood film premieres. As a pioneer, Regal has been at the heart of cinematic shifts, often premiering major Hollywood releases and hosting grand events, solidifying its place in the city's social fabric. It stood as a pillar of entertainment

Sunset Cinema Club’s not your average movie theatre with the faded red velvet seats. It’s more a travelling circus, an outdoor jaunt, a chance to watch films in an ordinary urban locale, transformed into a pop-up cinema for your eyes only. Well, you, and a couple dozen more avid movie watchers who won’t talk nonstop during the good parts.  Active since 2016, the club operates on the concept of transforming the mundane into the magical. It combines the city’s best open spaces – a quiet rooftop, for instance, or a breezy mall terrace, or an upscale poolside – and transforms them into a temporary, immersive cinematic event, all unfolding to the sun dipping below the horizon.  Their offerings are diverse – you might find yourself at a Sky Cinema event admiring the spectacular skyline, or a Dive-in Cinema, if they’re partnering with a hotel pool. The setting, inevitably, ends up becoming an integral part of the screening experience, and makes for a relaxed, festive ambience. The viewing area’s typically adorned with twinkling string lights, bean bags and comfy mattresses dot the ground, and the screening list carefully sidesteps the latest blockbusters, settling instead for beloved cult classics and comfort films.  To keep track of their schedule, head over to their Instagram page, @clubsunsetcinema.

If you ever find yourself in the busy lanes of Versova in Andheri West, look for a quiet diversion down the tree-lined avenues of Aram Nagar, where you might happen upon Harkat Studios. Housed in a charming bungalow in a neighbourhood that’s known for a rich history tied to Partition refugees, Harkat shoulders many roles. You could call it a hub for experimental film and fringe theatre – or a counter-narrative to the sprawling, commercial film industry that is Bollywood. Either way, it’s entirely dedicated to sustaining artistic practices that challenge the mainstream.  Everything about Harkat is serious, intimate. The performance room itself seats only about 40, and is designed to dissolve the distance between the artist and audience. This small stage has since become a furtive, fiercely loved home for boundary-pushing work in theatre and music, supporting narratives that are often political, melancholic, and thought-provoking. But Harkat doesn’t forget about the past. It houses the only film lab of its kind in the subcontinent that actively curates and teaches the use of 8mm and 16mm celluloid.  The atmosphere inside’s palpable. The air’s often coffee-scented and filled with the low murmur of collaboration (the space doubles as an informal co-working hub for artists). The interiors, furnished with salvaged antiques, murals, and a well-stocked library, possess a unique charm that invites you in.  Time Out tip: Book your tickets in advance and try to reach early. Finding the

The Crasto bungalow in Girgaon's Khotachiwadi has seen its fair share of goings-on. It's housed a printing press, and in a minor blip, even functioned as a gym. Today, it's the proud home for 47-A, a gallery exclusively dedicated to design. Inside, you'll find regular exhibitions that spotlight furniture, ceramics, textiles, and functional design, with each exploring themes like craft, sustainability, and material experimentation.  The nature of the work displayed is such that it invites viewers to spend time observing and reflecting on the care taken in curation – and that's helped along by the bungalow's spacious layout and vast availability of natural light. The village of Khotachiwadi itself is an interesting choice of location – it's a heritage village dating back to the 1800s, and it still contains some 30, fairly well preserved Portuguese colonial-influenced bungalows. This gallery's appropriately named 47-A, keeping in line with the numbering system the other bungalows in the area observe. Over time, it's become an intrinsic part of the village's community, and participates wholeheartedly in keeping its heritage alive.  The gallery came out of a collaboration between Chatterjee & Lal, an art gallery, and Baro Market, an online store that curates art, craft, and designer ware. Together, they created a mishmash of what they each do best – and because of that, 47-A's the only gallery in Mumbai that pays such exquisite attention to detail when it comes to design, material

Strangers House Gallery, oddly enough, feels kind of like visiting your grandma's house. There isn't a crevice here untouched by some niche historic episode, yet it's sprinkled liberally with contemporary trinkets that represent, in a way, the endless movement of time. All the exhibits here are lit by trusty old fluorescent lights, liberated from pesky security ropes (thank god), and carry the weight of resistance and solidarity that finds its roots in social movements, like Ambedkarite ideology and black consciousness.  Much of the gallery’s curatorial themes pay homage to the history of the building it’s housed in: Clark House, which, between 1940 and 1962, served as the Strangers Guest House – a long-term rental for people from all over the world. In 1955, Ram Bahadur Thakur & Co. launched their international shipping business from here; their trade connections, spanning the Middle East, Eastern Europe and Japan, made Clark House a node for cultural engagement.  Later, commemorations like the Lidice Memorial Day, honouring a Czechoslovak village massacred by the Nazis, led Indian artists like K.K. Hebbar and Chintamoni Kar to donate their pieces too, contributing to a vast, historic collection that linked Bombay to a global artistic solidarity. That international history's very much a part of the gallery today. It still functions as a hub that bridges history, art, and political discourse – there's art here from across the Indian subcontinent, Latin America, as well as Afr

The original NGMA was inaugurated in 1954 in Delhi; the Mumbai arm, at the Sir Cowasji Jehangir Public Hall in Kala Ghoda – Mumbai's art district – opened to the public in 1996.  One of the largest in Mumbai, the gallery houses a vast, varied curations across five floors. It's best known for housing some of the best works by the Indian greats – Raja Ravi Varma, Rabindranath Tagore, Amrita Sher-Gil and Jamini Roy – as well as contemporary figures like M.F. Husain, Anjolie Ela Menon, and Krishen Khanna. They've also hosted several highly-regarded international collections, such as the The Enduring Image, Treasures from the British Museum in 1998, which coincided with the 50th anniversary of India's independence; Picasso: Metamorphoses 1900-72; Italian Art 1950-70 Masterpieces from the Farnesina Collection in 2005; and Stefan Norblin (1892-52) A Master of Many Arts in 2011. Sir Cowasji Jehangir Public Hall itself boasts an impressive legacy; designed by a Scottish architect, it was once the city’s go-to venue for concerts, political gatherings, and public meetings. Its walls have echoed with speeches by Mahatma Gandhi and Jawaharlal Nehru, and with the music of the Bombay Symphony Orchestra. It was restored and transformed into the NGMA as we know it today following the efforts of Indian sculptor Piloo Pochkhanawala and gallerist Kekoo Gandhy. Time Out Tip: If you aren’t a fan of depositing your belongings in a locker, travel light, because bags and personal items aren’t allowed

Bonobo's been around since 2008, and the reason it even exists is because the founders were fed up with Mumbai's weird rules on formal dress codes and the lack of good, chilled out spots to hang out at. And so they built their own rebellion – Bonobo, a relaxed bar that also treats music like a religion (and with them, Mumbai eased up, too). The first thing you'll notice about Bonobo is the jungle-chic aesthetic that they've got going on atop the roof. It's very subtle in some ways – dim lighting, lush greenery – but wacky in others – mushroom-shaped umbrellas? – and it ties together in a way that puts you immediately at ease and snaps you out of the city's chaos.  Here's the real kicker: the food and drinks are way better than they necessarily need to be. That's an odd thing to say, but for a bar that's known for live music, you wouldn't typically come expecting top-notch nosh. But Bonobo excels at stuff beyond just snack plates. They serve great continental food – the Spicy Burnt Garlic Pizza's a must – and their cocktails are similarly well-crafted, with infusions ranging from wasabi to curry leaves. It's fuelled by the kind of inventive spirit that's kept the place relevant for nearly two decades.  Bonobo runs a tight ship when it comes to the music schedule, so plan a visit around your preferred genre. On Wednesdays, the theme's Live is Everything (mainly jazz and live music). This is their essential, free-entry live music night, typically starting around 10.30pm. It’s wh