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Hotel bars get a bad rap, and there’s a world in which that’s valid. Often a box-ticking addition tacked on at the end, it’s rare that a hotel bar becomes a venue in itself. But if you ask me, The Mulwray is an exception (along with the lobby at Ace Hotel, but that goes without saying).
Located on the first floor of the recently opened 25hours Hotel Sydney The Olympia, you’ll find The Mulwray down a moody mirrored hallway just off Oxford Street. Founded by siblings Layo and Zoë Paskin, The Mulwray takes its name from Evelyn Mulwray – the enigmatic heroine of Chinatown – and leans fully into that sultry, old-school femme-fatale energy. A neon silhouette greets you at the door, and inside, dark leather banquettes are framed by claude glass mirrors and heritage brick walls, warmed by a deep honeyed glow. It’s intimate without being cramped, and polished without feeling precious. Outside, tables line the hotel’s leafy atrium – an oasis of green just steps from Paddington’s buzz. Visit on a quiet Wednesday evening, and it’s possible that you’ll be among the only people there – sharing the dimly lit space with just a handful of couples or colleagues catching up over Martinis. Swing by on a Friday night, when the DJ is filling the air with disco and the After Hours happy hour is flowing (I’ll get to that), and you’re in for a totally different experience. Either way, there’s a lot to love about The Mulwray.
First up: let's talk about happy hours. In the beating heart of Oxford Street – arguably Sydney’s most fabled row of party palaces – this quietly playful bar offers one of the best happy hours around: $15 Martinis and Tommy’s Margs from 8pm–10.30pm Wednesday through Saturday. You’re reading that right.
Next up: the drinks themselves. Leading the drinks team is Head of Beverage Roean Patawaran, whose CV reads like a greatest-hits list of Sydney fine dining: Oncore by Clare Smyth, The International Sydney, Woodcut, and Firedoor. They keep things classic but dialled in with precision and premium spirits – our Martinis arrived in gorgeously ice-cold glasses, crafted to perfection with Four Pillars Olive Leaf Gin (IYKYK) and grounded with a fat Sicilian olive.
Wine fans, you’re covered too. Head Sommelier Eleonore Wulf (ex-AALIA, Itō, Jōji, Nour, and Lilymu) has curated a 100-bin list spotlighting biodynamic, organic, and sustainably farmed producers, with plenty of lesser-known grapes to keep things interesting.
The big-ticket item here, though, is probably the food. You can keep things classic with a bowl of olives and a plate of oysters (ours were creamy AF and dressed in a divinely zingy arak-spiked mignonette), or you can level up and order from the next-door Palomar. This is not a drill: the highly coveted Mediterranean-inspired menu from one of Sydney’s best new restaurants (helmed by Culinary Director Mitch Orr), served without pretension to your comfy booth or your open-air table in the atrium.
Service flows like a well-hosted dinner party – knowledgeable but never overbearing – and if you really fall in love, you can book a room upstairs (or head for one last drink on the roof).
Walk-ins only. Find out more over here.
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