Thomas Bird

Lined with brand-name hotels and pier-top seafood restaurants reaching over the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Thailand, Hua Hin’s waterfront has earned the moniker, ‘the Thai riviera’.   Rolling in a spruced-up tuk-tuk past major international shopping malls like Bluport and Market Village, it’s hard to imagine that the place was just a spattering of fishing villages a century ago. But Hua Hin came of age in the golden-era of rail and jazz, under the patronage of the Thai royal family, who were the first to vacation along this scenic stretch of Prachuap Khiri Khan Province’s coast.    The soundtrack of Hua Hin’s belle époque will have various venues swinging throughout the winter high season, with a series of jazz concerts and wine events scheduled from December through to February. 

Kanchanaburi, the charming provincial capital, is located just 140km northwest of Bangkok. While it serves as an ideal getaway at the junction of the Kwai Noi and Kwai Yai rivers, and surrounded by picturesque countryside, its peaceful appearance belies the dark historical chapter the province is known for. The waterways, overlooked by woody guesthouses and cascading restaurant terraces, make Kanchanaburi a seductive locale – somewhere easy to idle a few days away. Many linger longer than planned, shopping for Burmese jade and Thai trinkets in the markets, frequenting the cafes that dot the downtown area, or gathering to watch the sunset over the Kwai.     There are also places to eat and stay at scenic junctures along the railway, notably opposite the Tham Krasae wooden viaduct, which runs alongside a cliff above the Kwai Noi, as well as in the surrounding countryside, where the cave temples Wat Tham Khao Poon and Wat Ban Tham, andthe hilltop twins of Wat Tham Sua and Wat Tham Khao Noi, make easy and interesting excursions. However, the main point of focus is the River Kwai Bridge, which, as any history, railway or movie buff will tell you, has become a symbol of Japanese war atrocities in Southeast Asia. Photograph: Thomas Bird

If getting lost is a prerequisite to good travel, Songkhla disorientates in all the right ways.  Ramvithi Road, where mini-vans drop off travellers from Hat Yai for B34, looks like any main road in Thailand. But as you stroll into the Old Town, you’ll soon be wondering which country, and into which century, you might have stumbled. North of the City Gate, past the golden-domed Banbon Mosque that anchors a community where Thai-Chinese and Muslims live side-by-side, rows of antique shophouses simply ooze charm. The Taoist temples and clan academies signpost the old Chinese quarter, while Wat Yang Thong, a redolent Thai temple complex near the city walls, marks the northern periphery of old Songkhla.  Photograph: Thomas Bird This unique cosmopolitanism is the product of commerce and conquest down the centuries. First established as the seat of the ancient Malay kingdom of Langkasuka, between the 10th and 14th centuries, Singora, ‘the lion city’ as it was known, emerged as an entrepot, attracting traders from India, Java, China and Persia. By the early 17th century, the Sultanate of Singora had taken shape, flourishing until 1680, when a protracted war with the Siamese saw the besieged city abandoned.    Under Siamese suzerainty, a settlement grew-up just across the strait from old Singora, which has subsequently thrived as a hub of fishing, attracting Chinese merchants to its bountiful shores.  Although Hat Yai has surpassed Songkhla in size and prestige, the provincial capita

So the story goes, before there was Bangkok, there was Chinatown – a colony of Teochew merchants who’d sailed from Southeast China and set up shop on the banks of the Chao Phraya River to trade with Ayutthaya upstream.  This Chinatown was relocated when King Rama I began building the Grand Palace, moving to its current location, Yaowarat, a neighbourhood that has evolved into a Thai-Chinese foodie hotspot on most tourist itineraries.  In centrally-located Huai Khwang District, however, another Chinatown has taken shape in recent years. Although there aren’t any dragon-topped temples (nor platoons of sightseers) in the neighbourhood, the main strip along Pracharat Bamphen Road is attracting an increasing number of Sino-curious gastronomes, drawn by the prospect of sampling contemporary Chinese cooking.  Chinese provinces are akin in size and complexity to Southeast Asian countries, and consequently boast comparably sophisticated eating cultures. As Huai Khwang’s restaurateurs largely hail from the landlocked interior and frosty north of China, the culinary spoils are as distinct as they are delicious.  Just remember to bring along a dictionary, or download a translation app, as neither English, nor even Thai-language signage, is ubiquitous. 

If there were any doubt that Bangkok was the centre of all things in Thailand, you only need to look at the national railway map. The four main lines radiate out from the Thai capital like iron tentacles, stretching over 4,000km.  The Southern Line is Thailand’s longest line at 1,144 kilometres. Northwards, the 13-hour night train to Chiang Mai has become a rite-of-passage for backpackers. But Bangkokians, fear not, you needn’t roll so far in order to experience Thailand by rail, as there are plenty of destinations within easy reach of a wayfaring weekender.

Since its premier at the 52nd Telluride Film Festival in Colorado last month, tantalising images and reviews of Colin Farrell in Ballad of a Small Player have been circulating online. Based on the 2014 novel by Lawrence Osborne and directed by Edward Berger, whose 2022 epic All Quiet on the Western Front landed four Academy Awards, Ballad of a Small Player is set to bring a fresh view of Macau to a global audience.  ‘They really followed the book in terms of locations,’ says the novel’s author Lawrence Osborne, from his apartment in Sukhumvit.  For Osborne, ‘authenticity of place is the secret to authenticity of story,’ and he’d always felt, ‘the kaleidoscope of the exploding city has not been rendered in film before.’ ‘Berger,’ he says, ‘understood that he had to capture the texture of Macau.’ Osborne is yet to see the film adaptation, which Netflix is closely guarding until its official release in October, although he did get to watch some scenes being shot.  The story follows Lord Doyle, a fraudulent British gambler drifting through ‘Asia’s Las Vegas.’ ‘It’s very autobiographical. A lot of that character is about poverty and failure. When I watched Colin Farrell going through the lines on the set, I saw myself 20 years ago.’   Photograph: Netflix   As Osborne tells it, he discovered Macau after being hired as a reporter for The New York Times, a job that followed years of poverty and failure as a down-on-his-luck writer. ‘I was in the wasteland in the ‘90s. Eventually, a

If you should find yourself feeling all jazzed out, head over to Soi 88 for a cold beer instead. Woodstock Bar is a watering hole where you can experience another pillar of Americana roots music, the blues. Nightly jam sessions riffing on the classic 12-bar template are led by bar-owner and local guitar hero Ped Bluesman, with his band, The Blues Cats.     Everynight. Free. Woodstock Bar, 4pm-midnight 

‘Jazz is like wine,’ said avant-garde saxophonist Steve Lacy. ‘When it's new it's only for the experts, but when it gets older everybody wants it…’   Long associated with sophistication, wine and jazz are inextricably linked, especially in Hua Hin, where the good grape is harvested on the edge of Siam’s jazz town. To this end, Hua Hin resident John Murphy is organising the Hua Hin Wine Expo over two days, January 15 and 16, with the support of Monsoon Valley and Siam Winery.    ‘This is the fourth wine expo I’ve organised; I started just as we came out of the pandemic when there was nothing going on. I thought, why don’t we get all the best importers and wine makers, sommeliers and aficionados, into one room,’ explains Murphy of the expo’s conception. ‘The Wine Expo has since gone from strength to strength. Wine has become increasingly accepted in the culture, and, of course, we’re blessed with the Monsoon Valley vineyard in Hua Hin’s backyard.’   January 15-16. B1,200 - B1,500 via here. Amari Hua Hin. Check the timings via here. 

The owners of Why Not are also behind the second edition of the Hua Hin Racer Marina Jazz Festival, which will be held south of Hua Hin in Pranburi on January 10. ‘It’s an amazing venue, the marina is located between the river, the mountains and sea,’ says Eliot Nielsen, who organised the festival last year with his wife Surassawadee Phumbua and Philippe Oursel. This year’s event begins at 4pm with the Swing Mother Funky Quintet and concludes with a fire show finale, finishing at 11pm. ‘I’ve worked on festivals in Nice in the south of France, where I come from, so I’m experienced at organising events. The vision is to have a community concert, with art events, games, food trucks, as well as quality wine and jazz of course,’ he says, adding, ‘Last year we had 500 people, this year we’re hoping for 700.’ January 10 2026. B500 at the door. Hua Hin Racer Marina, 4pm-11pm

Located on Soi 94, Amara Resort Hua Hin is a hidden gem. Popular with local expats and those-in-the-know, the resort hosts Jazz You More at the poolside house-restaurant every Monday and Thursday evening from 7.30pm until late. ‘I have loved jazz since I was young. I feel free and relaxed when I hear it so I brought it to my family resort to bring together community spirit and support local musicians,’ resort owner Sanisa Sriarg tells Time Out. Amara employs a group of solid local jazzers – Mink, Nueng, Art, Yo, Kan, Oat and Seenam – who are often joined by special guests to perform light jazz and salsa, in addition to medleys penned by Rama IX, the late king who spent much of his time in Hua Hin and was a huge proponent of jazz in the kingdom. One more local place to catch jazz is Why Not Restaurant, a Thai-French operation famed in Hua Hin for its woodfired pizzas, and, of course, wine. Located on the junction of Soi 98 and Phet Kasem Road, the restaurant hosts American saxophonist Daniel Covrett on Fridays from 7.30pm onwards. Every Monday, Thursday and Friday. Free. Amara Resort Hua Hin, 7.30pm onwards

One of the largest shopping malls Búeport Hua Hin has also scheduled a Christmas jazz show this year. Russian group the Igor Butman Quartet will entertain those who congregate on the first-floor exhibition centre for a Christmas Eve swing-along that will touch ‘the heart of Christmas through jazz’ on December 24.    December 24. B590-890 via here. Bluport Hua Hin, 5pm onwards 

Wine connoisseurs can also get down and groovy this festive season at Monsoon Valley on December 20. The gorgeous vineyard, set in the hills 45km to the east of downtown Hua Hin, will host a night of jazz to celebrate Christmas with a local Thai group, The Hua Hin Young Chronicles, and Dutch big band Big to The Future (B2F). ‘The Young Chronicles incorporate Thai traditional instruments into their performances,’ says the winery’s Guido Campigotto. ‘And B2F mixes jazz and pop classics, they always have everyone dancing at the end.’ Live music will run from 6.30pm until 10pm after welcome drinks. The event includes a lavish buffet dinner, free-flow wines and charitable auctions. ‘We try to share the Christmas spirit by working in conjunction with a local charity, Hua Hin Heroes,’ says Campigotto. December 20. B1,990-3,600 via here. Monsoon Valley, 6.30pm-10pm

Jazz hands will be waving before the surf at the season’s inaugural event, the 19th Hua Hin International Jazz Festival. Originally scheduled for November, the festival was postponed in respect of the passing of Her Majesty Queen Sirikit The Queen Mother.    Organisers say, performers will light up Hua Hin Beach in front of the iconic Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villas on December 19 and 20 from 5pm to 11pm each evening.    ‘The event is free admission, no ticket reservation is required,’ festival organiser Jiang informs Time Out before noting that, ‘world-class jazz artists from nine countries’ will perform ‘alongside some of Thailand’s leading jazz musicians.’   International talents include saxophonist and flautist Mitch Frohman from the US; Sydney-born saxophonist and flautist Dale Barlow; Japanese saxophonist and flautist Yuri Kishimoto; and Cuban-born singer, songwriter and producer Lilith Valdés, also known as Lilly.V.    Refreshments will be available from 30 food and drink booths supported by hotels and businesses in the area.   December 19-20. Free. Hua Hin Beach, 5pm-11pm

Lanzhou hand-pulled noodles, or lamian, are a type of soft wheat flour noodle known for being stretched and folded by hand. Although this style of cooking originated in the city of Lanzhou in northwest China, hand-pulled noodles have become ubiquitous in Chinese cities, particularly around transport hubs, where they serve inexpensive dishes to customers on the move. Crucially, unlike most Chinese restaurants, they sell dishes designed for individuals rather than groups. There are two restaurants specialising in Lanzhou hand-pulled noodles in Huai Khwang: Le Ha Ha and Xin Xin.  Mr Han runs the latter, an ethnic Hui Muslim from Qinghai Province who has been dishing up northwestern staples in Bangkok for two years.  Seats are green leather, organised around tables like booths in an American diner. There’s an open-kitchen in the back where you can watch noodles being pulled by hand.   All dishes come with a complimentary broth and cold pickles. As portions are massive, it pays to order modestly.  The classic hand-pulled noodles with beef is served in consommé broth with tender beef, coriander, garlic shoots and dash of chilli oil. Also highly recommended are the fried noodles with tomato and eggs. Both should be mopped up with a classic Silk Road import, namely, naan bread.  Xin Xin also vends barbeque skewers.  Time Out Tip: This is a halal restaurant and alcohol is not served. They do stock a range of Western and Chinese soft drinks, however. Chinese Name: 鑫鑫中国兰州拉面 Xinxin Zhong

Dongbei means ‘northeast,’ and applies to the remote region between Russia and Korea historically known as Manchuria. Tasked with staving off temperatures that regularly drop below -20°C, the food is characterised by rich flavours and a heavy use of soy, vinegar and garlic, with an emphasis on wheat-based staples, notably dumplings. Portions tend to be big and are generally shared amongst diners.  There are several Dongbei restaurants dotted around Huai Kwang Chinatown, some of which specialise in iron pot stew (tieguodun) whereby meats like pork or goose are stewed together with potatoes in a large cast-iron pot. Located on the corner of Pracharat Bamphen Road and Ratchadaphisek Road, Old Dongbei Mother’s Dumpling House is one of the first Chinese restaurants you’ll see as you emerge from Huai Khwang MRT station and also one of the best to sample Manchurian fare. Ordering is made easy for the average farang via a digital menu, which has English translations. Some of the Burmese wait staff also understand Thai and English.  Dumplings are steamed outside in a portico; the leek and egg dumplings (15 per portion) are a best-seller. Another classic dish is disanxian, literally  ‘three-treasures of the earth’ – a stir-fried dish comprised of eggplant, potatoes and green bell peppers coated in a savoury garlic-based sauce that embodies the hearty taste of North China.    Time Out Tip: The restaurant stocks Thai and international beers but you can also try Snow, a popular Chinese be

Sometimes rendered Schezwan cooking in English, the flavour that defines the bold and complex eating culture native to Chongqing and sister-province Sichuan is mala – the combination of chili pepper spice and the numbing effect of Sichuan peppercorns. Arguably no other form of Chinese cooking has made such inroads in Thailand over the past few years with native ‘mala’ restaurants appearing across all major towns and cities. Sichuan cuisine is well represented in Huai Kwang. Next to Xin Xin Lanzhou Hand Pulled-Noodles, Chongqing Mianzhuang vends bowls of mouth-numbing soup noodles and on Ratchadaphisek Road, Er Xiao Ye is a two-storey, upscale hot pot specialist.  Located on Pracha Uthit Road, a short walk from the Pracharat Bamphen Road, the bamboo decor and panda logo of Tongwei Noodle Restaurant might be designed to evoke rural Sichuan but the restaurant’s open-plan is more akin to a typical Southeast Asian eatery than anything you might find in China.  Spicy snacks as well as some standard noodle dishes are available from the menu, which has Thai and Burmese translations and pictures, but no English. But primarily, it’s all about malatang – a Sichuanese-style street-food where customers select skewered meats and vegetables from the fridge that are then cooked in a spicy broth in the middle of the table.  Time Out Tip: Tongwei Noodle Restaurant is open 24-hours a day, and is popular with late-night diners. Chinese Name: 北味春成都小吃 Beiweichun Chengdu Xiaochi