Marisa Marchitelli

In Thailand, if the kitchen is the heart of the home, the street is its theatre. We all know the scene: sparking woks, clouds of fragrant smoke, and vendors cooking in plain sight. But now, a new wave of restaurants in the country’s north is taking that raw, theatrical spirit and channelling it into fine dining. And if the street stall is the theatre, these new spots are the opera houses – sleek, intimate stages where the open kitchen is the main event. What ties them together is a devotion to fire, fermentation and fiercely local ingredients. Forget imported luxuries; Chiang Mai’s top chefs are championing foraged herbs, freshwater fish and indigenous grains, using modern techniques that are still deeply respectful of their heritage. The result is inventive, grounded and completely thrilling. Ready for a front-row seat? Here are the essential restaurants in Chiang Mai – and beyond – leading the culinary charge.

Thai kitchens don’t whisper, they roar: garlic sizzles, chilies pound, woks clang. And always in the background, jasmine rice steams quietly in the corner, filling the air with a soft, pandan-like perfume. For Thais, that fragrance means home. For me, that scent is steeped in nostalgia. As a child, when my head barely reached the countertop, I would watch my mother lift the lid of the rice pot, a cloud of steam rising to veil her face. Later, when the rice cooker gave its telltale ‘pop,’ my role was clear: to fluff the rice quickly, separating each grain before closing the pot again to trap its warmth and perfume. Even now, that small but important duty remains mine. That daily ritual revolves around what the world knows as jasmine rice. But its true name and official designation is Khao Hom Mali, Thailand’s most celebrated grain. First discovered in the Northeast in 1945, it is protected under Thailand’s Geographical Indication (GI) certification and can only be grown in Thai soil. The most prized fields lie in the Thung Kula Ronghai basin of Isan, where once-barren saline plains have, over generations, been transformed into fertile paddies. Here, the extremes of hot days, cool nights, and mineral-rich soil coax out the rice’s signature qualities: a floral aroma, delicate sweetness, and a soft, fluffy texture when cooked. Harvested just once a year in late autumn, these grains are recognized globally as the finest fragrant rice in the world. Photograph: TAT More than just

Forget the fuss over Michelin stars – khai jiao, the Thai omelette, has always been the people’s champion. Crispy, fluffy, sometimes stuffed with crab, sometimes nothing more than eggs and oil. It’s the dish that works at any hour of the day.  When Jay Fai’s Michelin-starred crab omelette made headlines for costing more than most people’s weekly shop, it sparked a nationwide debate: how much should an omelette really cost? The truth is, khai jiao has always been gloriously democratic. It can be a crisp-edged street snack, a lush crab-laden treat or even dressed up with herbs, flowers or tea leaves. Technique makes all the difference – timing, heat control and respect for ingredients – transforming something so simple into something unforgettable. And while the high-priced versions grab headlines, some of the most satisfying omelettes are still found at humble prices. From minced pork comfort-food classics to inventive riffs with unexpected toppings, forget Bangkok and try out our list of the top omelettes in Chiang Mai instead, ranging from B100 classics to near-thousand baht masterpieces. 

Chiang Mai may be laid-back by day, but after dark the city reveals a more mysterious side. Tucked behind unmarked doors, winding alleys and quiet staircases are some of the city’s most intriguing watering holes – places where the cocktails are serious, the lights are low and finding the entrance will require a bit of detective work. From speakeasy-style lounges with live jazz to minimalist hideaways in heritage buildings, these hidden bars are where Chiang Mai’s creative energy and nightlife scene quietly thrive. You won’t find big signs or flashing lights – these spots may appear on Google Maps, but good luck finding your way in. If you don’t know the secret, you could be pushing bookshelves or following mysterious red lanterns like moths to a flame. We’ll give you a hint, but it’s the whisper of music down an otherwise empty alley that will be your beacon call.  Once you eventually find your way inside, cocktails laden with the best liquor available to man are to be found – from rare international reserves to our favourite locally distilled spirit, Sonklin, from Choeng Doi Distillery just up the road. With a bit of planning (and some comfortable shoes), it’s entirely possible to turn these tucked-away gems into a weekend-long bar crawl – or even squeeze into one night if you’re feeling brave. Instead, we’d opt for a relaxed weekend of shaken drinks, sultry jazz and mysterious discoveries made by candlelight.

High in the hills of northern Thailand, a quiet, yet unexpected cheese renaissance is taking shape. With a growing interest in cheese, mostly imported from Europe, a new generation of Thai and expat artisans are trying their hand at crafting wheels, wedges and washed rinds right here in Chiang Mai – with results that rival their European counterparts.  Using raw local milk, time-honored techniques and a fearless sense of experimentation, a surprising number of cheesemakers are popping up across the north. Leading the way is Jartisann, a micro-creamery where each cheese is composed with instinct, artistry and a sense of place. While their creativity stands out, makers like DoFann, Dacheeso and Adirak are also redefining the possibilities for Thai cheese – sometimes rustic, sometimes refined, always rooted in place. The revolution may be small, but it’s bold, local and ready to be tasted!

If there’s a single dish that is the icon of Northern Thai cuisine, it’s khao soi – a fragrant, curry-laden bowl of rich coconut broth, silky egg noodles and finished with crispy golden strands of those very same noodles deep fried on top.  Yet, for all its deep ties to Chiang Mai, khao soi is something of an outlier in Lanna cuisine. Unlike most northern Thai dishes, which lean toward herbaceous, smokey and coconut-free flavours, khao soi bursts with over thirty bold spices, creamy stewed meats and curiously Chinese-Muslim and Indian influences. So how did this peculiar dish become the unofficial ambassador of northern Thai fare? Well, it is said to have arrived in Thailand via Yunnanese and Muslim traders on the Silk Road way back in the 13th century. And while Chiang Mai remains the heartland of khao soi, Bangkok has been steadily catching up, with top-tier Chiang Mai transplants popping up across the capital as the love for this food cascades over the country (with one of our featured listings recently winning big at Grab’s 2025 Thumbs Up Award). Here’s a roundup of the ten best places to eat khao soi – from legendary roadside stalls to modern interpretations in both Chiang Mai and the capital. And, for a bit of good measure, we’ve also thrown in a few expert-approved cooking schools where you can master the dish yourself. Let the slurping begin!

Tucked behind the daytime bustle of Thanin Market, Penn.Izakaya is easy to miss – its black steel facade framed by a discreet circular staircase gives it a mysterious, almost clandestine feel. Inside, the space opens into an intimate dining bar wrapped around an open kitchen, with just a handful of extra tables. An experience that mixes food and music, the DJ is positioned right beside the chefs and their open fire. As you watch her bobbing to the beat, flames roar just behind – a scene that feels equal parts club and kitchen. The menu leans towards an izakaya-style but with noticeable Thai flourishes, perfect for sharing over sake, wine or beer. The grilled beef was a standout – smokey, charred, tender and full of flavour – while the small plates balance comfort with a touch of refinement. Part hidden bar, part chef’s counter, it’s one of those places you stumble on once and immediately want to keep as your own secret. Penn.Izakaya. Mains from B100. Chang Phueak, Chiang Mai. Open daily 6pm-12am.

Maadae takes streetside open kitchen themes to the next level as smoke from its charcoal grills wafts into the evening air, carrying the scent of the catch of the day. Born during the pandemic to support Thailand’s artisanal fishermen, it has since become a local favourite under the careful eye of Chef Yaowadee ‘Yao’ Chookong, who now also runs a popular cooking school outside of town. Fish offerings change daily – whole mackerel, trevally or snapper grilled over charcoal fire. There are house favourites too: rich fish chuchee curry, bright crab ceviche with homemade chips and refreshing fried fish pomelo salad with shrimp paste. Outdoor seating puts you right at the heart of the action, flames flaring from street-side grills. Drinks and desserts are hyper-local too – house-brewed teas, Daydrinker’s Collective mead from Chiang Dao, seasonal fruit sodas and ice cream from nearby farms. Maadae Slowfish Kitchen. Mains from B300. Thapae Road, Chiang Mai. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm.

Minimalist and restrained, Pari- is one of Chiang Mai’s most elegant expressions of ingredient-forward dining. The space is pared-back, designed to let the food and the open kitchen take centre stage. Flames leap and smoke drifts as vegetables, meats and seafood are grilled or fermented with little adornment, often accompanied by nothing more than a pinch of salt or soy. The dry-aged raw fish with ponzu says it all – minimalist in presentation, maximalist in flavour. Lunch leans casual with rice bowls, gyoza and small plates, while dinner shifts toward more refined a la carte dishes such as grilled organic chicken with yuzu kosho and simple but unforgettable vegetables like cabbage or eggplant cooked over the fire. Pari’s appeal lies in its purity – no flourishes, just thoughtful cooking where every ingredient is allowed to speak. It’s the kind of place where you leave remembering the flavour of the cabbage as much as the beef. Pari-. Dinner mains from B225. Phra Sing, Chiang Mai. Open daily, 10am-2pm, 6pm-11pm.

Chiang Mai’s fine-dining scene has a new benchmark in Belén, a collaboration between local restaurateur Tao Ingudananda (Kiti Panit, Ledu) and chef Paulo Airaudo (who holds six Michelin stars between his restaurants). The kitchen is led by Italian Executive Chef Matteo Santalucia, whose impressive resume spans The Fat Duck, Maison Pic, La Dame de Pic, and Alain Ducasse. His style blends European precision with Japanese influences, while drawing 80 percent of ingredients from Northern Thailand’s fields, forests and farms. Dinner begins in the moody library lounge, with amuse-bouches and Monsoon Tea before stepping through a hidden bookcase door into the 18-seat dining room. 10 of these seats face the open kitchen, where dishes unfold in full view: barracuda tartelette with dashi, seared Hokkaido scallop in a luscious XO-champagne sauce with green curry butter and milk bread on the side, tomato risotto with uni and a standout chawanmushi with charred corn. Desserts balance playfulness and elegance, from a mangosteen and white chocolate creation to a goat cheese flan with Thai plums, finishing with a whimsical Star Wars-inspired whiskey jelly. Ambitious, intimate and polished, it’s tipped to become Chiang Mai’s first Michelin-starred restaurant. Belén. 14-course menu B5,500; wine pairing B2,500. InterContinental Chiang Mai the Mae Ping, Chang Klan. Open Thu-Mon, 5.30pm-11pm.

What began as a one-night-a-week hangout among friends has evolved into one of Chiang Mai’s most personal dining experiences. Chefs Patsorn ‘Nick’ Vilaihongsa and Nont Panayanggool now helm Friend’s Table six nights a week, alternating as leads in the kitchen. Seating a maximum of 14 guests, the restaurant feels like dining in someone’s living room – except the ‘living room’ is the kitchen itself. Board games still line the shelves, a nod to its casual origins, but the menu is all ambition. The current 10-course tasting leans on street food inspiration elevated with luxury ingredients: a charcoal-grilled tamarind prawn, wagyu steak frites with duck fat potatoes, and snow fish bao with crab tamarind reduction. Dishes shift every three months, and add-ons like a smoked salmon rosette or wagyu sirloin make the experience even more indulgent. With a mostly female team running both kitchen and floor, the atmosphere is warm, precise and unpretentious – an open-kitchen concept taken to its most intimate. Friend’s Table by Nick and Nont. 10-course menu B2,990. Nong Khwai, Hang Dong. Open Wed-Mon, 6.30pm-10.30pm.  

Nestled in a humble yet artful Lanna-style house on the outskirts of Chiang Rai, Chef Kongwuth ‘Kong’ Chaiwongkachon turns each seven-course tasting menu into a multisensory performance. Up to 12 diners sit alongside his open kitchen, where every dish is introduced with stories of the ingredient’s origin – whether from local farmers, fishermen, or even wild ecosystems – making each course an education on local terroir. Menus change every three months and lean into Northern Thai traditions interpreted with creative restraint and deep, thoughtful reinvention. Highlights have included prawn-and-radish cannelloni with fermented mustard‑green butter, tom som pla with chayote vine, khao soi gai in a contemporary glaze and inventive-yet-familiar desserts like the amethyst bualoy‑krongkrang‑tubtim krob medley. Don’t skip the wine pairing or the rum digestif, both carefully composed to enhance the dining experience. Locus Native Food Lab. Seasonal menu B3,000-3,500. Mae Kon, Chiang Rai. Open Mon-Sat, 5.30pm-8.30pm.

At YoRice Amazake, rice isn’t plated – it’s poured. By fermenting local varieties of jasmine rice with koji, they create a silky, naturally sweet drink that’s packed with probiotics, B vitamins, and antioxidants – making it a bona fide rice-based superfood. The project was founded by an unlikely trio: Pharadon ‘Opor’ Phonamnuai, Chiang Mai’s legendary saxophonist and owner of the iconic North Gate Jazz Co-Op; Dr. Kongkiat Kespechara, a physician with a passion for wellness; and artist Pramarn Jaroonwanich. Together, they’ve turned rice fermentation into both a craft and a cause, blending creativity, health, and social impact in every glass. Think of it as the creamy comfort of rice porridge distilled into a refreshing craft beverage. Whether you try the traditional version or a fruity twist like mulberry or lychee, each sip feels like health in a glass. Just as important is how they source their grain. YoRice uses broken rice – normally relegated to animal feed – paying farmers 20% above the usual rate and giving new value to overlooked harvests. That same rice has also inspired North Gate Spirit, a small-batch label under the North Gate Distillery brand, proving its versatility from soft drinks to strong pours. The venture itself was born out of a ‘Rice for Life’ campaign to support refugees along the Thai border during the Covid-19 pandemic, and today, the three partners continue to weave purpose into every bottle, sip and story. YoRice Amazake. Rice fermentation café. Drin

Set atop the original Central store on historic Charoenkrung Road, Aksorn is Chef David Thompson’s homage to mid‑century Thai cuisine – a world resurrected from vintage cookbooks and served in cinematic, family-style tasting menus. The restaurant melds nostalgia with prestige, pairing delicate starters like Miang Mhark with heritage-themed mains, all in a setting where the original bookshop facade meets plated memories. Thompson believes that ‘Thai food... is like a complex musical chord – it’s got to have a smooth surface but it doesn’t matter what’s happening underneath.’ At Aksorn, Khao Hom Mali rice plays like the steady bass note, perhaps understated but essential, tying together the drama of turmeric curries, floral relishes, and layered textures into a harmonious dining movement. Aksorn. Heritage Thai. Set menus from B4,150++. Central: The Original Store, 5F, 1266 Charoenkrung Rd, Bang Rak, Bangkok. Open daily 6-10pm.

In a lovingly restored Sino-Portuguese townhouse in Phuket Old Town, The Charm Dining Gallery balances nostalgia with a refined take on Southern Thai cuisine. Owner and Chef Arnon Phucharoen is adamant that rice deserves the same care as the curries and seafood it accompanies: ‘If you cook the dishes perfectly but choose the wrong rice, it is a waste – and it needs to be piping hot,’ he says. For him, Khao Hom Mali is the indispensable companion – soft, fragrant, and capable of tempering the fire of Southern chilies without ever losing its character. The kitchen here treats rice with reverence, pairing it with recipes drawn from generations of family cooking. Expect bold Southern signatures – turmeric-stained curries, stir-fries bristling with herbs and seafood fresh from the Andaman – all anchored by rice chosen with the same care as the ingredients themselves. The result is a dining room where every detail feels deliberate, from the historic architecture to the very grain on your plate. The Charm Dining Gallery. Southern Thai. Set menus from B1,290. 93 Dibuk Road, Talad Nue, Phuket Old Town Phuket. Open 11am–9pm. Closed Wed.

With just five tables set alongside the open kitchen, Rasik is as intimate as it gets. Diners watch Chef Sala ‘Waii’ Sakdadej move with an easy rhythm and a big smile, turning the space into something closer to a dinner party than a restaurant. At times he’ll step out from behind the counter, raise his glass, and toast with guests – blurring the line between host and chef in a way that makes you feel part of his inner circle. The menu is rooted in hearty Thai comfort food, where local ingredients are treated with finesse but never fussed over. At the heart of it all is rice. Chef Waii insists on Khao Hom Mali from the famed Thung Kula Ronghai basin, choosing the Thai Hua & Sethiwan brand for its fragrance and natural moisture. To achieve what he calls the perfect balance of texture and aroma, he blends it with another jasmine strain – a small act of obsession that shows just how seriously chefs treat rice in Thailand. The result is rice that isn’t just a backdrop, but a steamy centerpiece that elevates everything from layered seafood curries to soulful Northern-style dishes. Rasik Local Kitchen. Contemporary Thai. Dishes from B290. Chang Khlan, Mueang, Chiang Mai. Open 5-10pm. Closed Tue.

In Udon Thani’s heritage quarters, this charming family home has been revived as a kitchen where rice sits at the heart of every plate – and every story. House Number 1712 offers diners the choice of four different strains of rice, ranging from classic Khao Hom Mali to lesser-known local varieties, allowing guests to experience the grain not just as a pairing, but as a character in the journey. ‘At our restaurant, we normally serve both jasmine rice and local varieties. We usually offer about four different strains of rice for our guests to choose from.’ Dishes here embody the soul of Isan: expect delicately grilled river fish, slow-cooked curries, and smoky salads like larb all served beside rice that’s fragrant, warm, and effortless. The home’s architectural charm – shaded verandas, polished wood floors – only deepens the connection to place, making every meal feel like family hospitality elevated with fine touches. House Number 1712. Isan contemporary. Set menus from B690. 6/3 Prajak Sillapakom Rd, Udon Thani. Open Tue–Sun 11am–9pm.

Born and raised in Khon Kaen, Chef Paisarn Cheewinsiriwat grew up surrounded by rice fields – a memory that infuses his cooking today. Working directly with small farming communities, he sources Khao Hom Mali from the Thung Kula Ronghai basin, where the saline soil and once-harsh conditions have, paradoxically, become the secret to world-class rice. Farmers often hold the unpolished grain for him and mill it only when he orders, so diners taste rice at its freshest – fluffy, aromatic, and glistening with natural moisture. ‘Isan food usually goes hand in hand with sticky rice,’ Chef Paisarn notes, ‘but there is no rule carved in stone. Jasmine rice can pair beautifully with Isan food as well.’ At KAEN, the rice isn’t just a backdrop for fiery flavors — it plays a starring role, paired with charcoal-grilled meats, house-fermented relishes, and seasonal produce. Heritage varieties, like red tubtim rice from Chumphae, also appear on the menu, deepening the connection between memory and place. For Paisarn, the joy of ‘new rice’ – soft, fragrant, and pandan-like – still lingers from his childhood, when his nanny would bring the family her fresh harvest. And for those who can’t make it upcountry, Kaenkrung in Bangkok brings the same spirit with a city twist. KAEN. Isan contemporary. Seasonal set menu from B1,990. Khon Kaen. Open daily 11am-2pm, 5-10pm.