Edward Hewes

As one of Japan’s largest cities, Osaka is naturally home to a host of sky-piercing towers. While the views from these skyscrapers may not be as instantly recognisable as Tokyo's cityscape, the sights of Osaka Bay, Osaka Castle and the surrounding mountain ranges are no less captivating. Crucially, many of these buildings don’t just offer stunning views; they also hide relaxing rooftop gardens, lush with greenery and open to the public for free. So the next time you're looking to escape the crowds, don't duck into a café – look up. RECOMMENDED: Looking for more places to relax? Here are nine of the best beaches in and near Osaka

Osaka may not be renowned for its beaches, but there are plenty close enough for a quick summer escape to enjoy the balmy sea breeze. Both the northern and southern shores of Osaka Bay are well served by trains from the city’s main stations – even the Pacific Coast is reachable within a morning. Whether you’re after clear waters, surfing, sauna, water sports, barbecue, fresh seafood or scenic coastal views, the following beaches are all accessible from Osaka by train or bus, most within an hour or two. RECOMMENDED: 8 reasons why Osaka is so hot right now (and we don't mean the weather)

In Japan, the autumn equinox is a culturally significant event that traditionally marks the end of the harvest season and is accompanied by observances across the country. For those in Osaka, one of the most magical of these seasonal celebrations can be found at Hozanji, a majestic mountaintop temple located halfway between the city and Nara and only 40 minutes from Umeda. Every year, as dusk falls on the equinoctial night, more than 1,000 paper lanterns lining the long stone staircase to the temple are set alight, along with more than 10,000 candles dotting the temple’s precincts. The effect is as stunning as it is moving; the lanterns, adorned with poems, prayers, and pictures drawn by kindergartners and local artists, cast a fantastical, guiding glow through the neighbourhood and up the mountain. The staircase has around 300 steps, so the walk is not for the faint-hearted – but emerging from the crowds into a temple festooned with candles flickering off the surrounding statues, pavilions and forest is well worth it. The community really comes together for this event, and whether you choose to walk from Ikoma Station or take the cable car, you’ll find no shortage of shops, cafés and restaurants spilling out onto the street, selling food and drink or playing music. This also means you can take from the evening what you need from it. On the initial walk up, the atmosphere is uplifting and lively, while the further you go, the more serene and contemplative it becomes. Whicheve

Munich’s legendary Oktoberfest comes to Osaka this autumn with the return of Tenshiba Oktoberfest. Just like its Bavarian namesake, for 24 days, a small slice of Tennoji Park becomes a free-to-enter beer garden with covered seating and a rain-or-shine schedule. There will be more than 60 varieties of German beer on tap, from crisp pilsners and pale ales to rich wheat beers and seasonal specials, and even a beer brewed especially for Japan: Alcobräu’s Weissbier Krone. To match the beer, the gaudy get-together lays on some of the most indulgent food there is, from genuine German pub grub like bratwursts and currywursts to the not-so-Bavarian Hiroshima oysters, steak, spareribs, mussels, pizza and platters of prosciutto and salami. Each Saturday, Sunday and public holiday, the festival atmosphere gets amplified by four performances from the lively Maria & Alpenbuam, a German-style band led by the aptly named ‘Queen of Beer Halls’.

The Oizumi Ryokuchi Garage Sale in the city of Sakai in southern Osaka prefecture comes with a community feel. Among locals it has something of a treasure hunting status, with lots of thrift clothing, handmade items, toys and miscellaneous everyday items.  It also hosts independent shops from around the neighbourhood, a particular highlight among which are the greengrocers selling what’s in season, with the November event famous for persimmons. The market usually has around 200 booths, plus a few food trucks for a pick-me-up. As with many of Osaka’s markets, it’s best to bring cash.

The Expo Vintage Market is Osaka’s biggest vintage and antiques market. Held at Expo ’70 Commemorative Park’s East Square, the three-day market takes on a festival feel, with more than 150 stalls, food and drink, and live music. Weather permitting it takes place twice a year, in spring and autumn.  The market specialises in antiques, with almost a hundred stalls dedicated to finds with good old-fashioned charm – from swanky Scandinavian furniture, delicate china and glassware to Mexican Zapotec rugs and extensive collections of memorabilia and Americana. Around 30 of the stalls are for second-hand clothing, but don’t expect the kind of bulk-bought clothes you find in many vintage shops. Instead, the festival is a place for vendors who take pride in personally purchasing the pieces they sell and the price that comes with that. Speaking of money, many of the vendors do accept cards, but to be on the safe side remember to bring cash.   The variety of items available at the market is also reflected in the food and drink on offer. In between bargain hunting you can sample baked goods, pizza and burgers, or a drink from one of the craft breweries, cocktail bars or speciality coffee roasters on site.

Expo ’70 Commemorative Park is home to two of Osaka’s most popular and best-attended flea markets, one in its Festival Square and one in its East Square. The Expo Garage Sale is noted for the wide range of goods its vendors sell. Expect handmade items, accessories, antiques, bric-a-brac, and plenty of second-hand and vintage clothes.  Most importantly, expect bargains. The organisers pride themselves on the market being a true-to-its-name ‘out of the garage’ sale. That means you’ll need to bring cash, and that bargaining – albeit politely – is encouraged. If you prioritise low prices over being particular about the products, know that in the afternoon, the crowding calms down and many of the amateur vendors lower their prices.  The market also attracts food trucks, and the park has several cafés and restaurants so there are plenty of options for a picnic in the park. The Expo Garage Sale takes place up to three times a month but on irregular dates and is subject to weather conditions, so make sure to check the website for an up-to-date schedule.

This second-hand market at Hattori Ryokuchi Park’s East Central Square is perfect for anyone looking to pick up a bargain while spending the day in one of Osaka’s best parks. The market showcases goods from more than 100 professional and amateur vendors. There’s plenty of variety on offer, from second-hand clothing, household goods and home décor to toys and anime collectibles. This makes it perfect for both those looking for everyday items and collectors on the hunt for something a little more special.  Meanwhile, Hattori Ryokuchi may not be Osaka’s biggest park, but it is one of its most varied. It has the Open-Air Museum of Old Japanese Farmhouses, a botanical garden home to a Dutch windmill and seasonal flowers that bloom all year round, and the bamboo forests of Mt Inari. Since the Ryokuchi Garage Sale isn’t the largest market that Osaka has to offer either, pairing it up with half a day in the park works perfectly. There’s even a super sento nearby where you can enjoy a soak after a day of strolling and shopping.

Shimokita Craft Beer Fest returns in September for its eighth edition, this one a special collaboration with Moon Art Night Shimokitazawa. For the last weekend of the month, the beery bash will bring together craft breweries from across Japan to celebrate tsukimi, the autumn moon festival. From familiar faces on the capital-area craft beer scene, such as West Coast Brewing, to local taprooms such as Kaigan Brewery, each of the 11 breweries involved will be making a beer specially for the occasion. Highlights include Kyoto Brewing’s Aki no Kimagure, a limited release red IPA; Tokyo Aleworks’ Harvest Moon, a pumpkin spice ale; and TDM 1874’s roasted chestnut ale, brewed with roasted malts to capture the colour of the harvest moon. There will also be food trucks serving dishes specifically designed to pair with the beers, making the event the perfect setting to enjoy festival food, appreciate some art and – of course – toast the changing of the seasons with world-class craft beer.

Kobe Rokko Meets Art is a contemporary art festival held annually on Mt Rokko in Kobe. Now in its 16th year, the event is a diverse celebration of culture, nature and art. Running from August 23 to November 30, the mountain’s forests, terraces, gardens and venues are transformed into sculpture parks, open-air exhibitions and light and sound installations. Plus, it’s less than an hour from Osaka, making it a must-visit for anyone looking to enjoy nature while admiring art this autumn. This year’s focus, ‘Environmental Perspectives and Thought’, aims to inspire conversations about nature, history and culture, particularly the power that natural monuments like Mt Rokko have in shaping our world view. The work of over 60 artists from Japan and abroad will be on display, including Michael Lin, Winter/Hoerbelt and Yoshitomo Nara, whose famous Peace Head will become a permanent installation at the site. This year also sees Ryotaro Muramatsu’s world-touring Dandelion Project come to Mt Rokko as its 65th venue. On weekends and holidays, the Rokko Alpine Botanical Garden will stay open late, allowing you to take an enchanting stroll and blow on giant dandelions that scatter laser beams and lights across the garden’s rocks, trees and alpine flora. The best way to get there is by cable car: a ten-minute ride from Rokko Cable Shita Station takes you to the top of Mt Rokko, roughly 880 metres above sea level. From the Tenran Observatory, you’ll enjoy sweeping views of Kobe, the Seto Inland

With a history dating back over 300 years, the Kishiwada Danjiri Matsuri is one of Japan’s largest, oldest and most popular danjiri festivals, often drawing huge 400,000-strong crowds. It’s held twice a year – in September and October – in Kishiwada city in southern Osaka prefecture. As its name suggests, the festival revolves around the danjiri: massive wooden floats adorned with intricate carvings and housing miniature shrines, reaching up to four metres tall and weighing as much as three tons. What makes them so captivating to watch is the speed at which they’re hauled through the streets by hundreds of men, spurred on by thumping drum beats and guided by dancers balancing atop the floats. The sharp, high-speed corner turns are especially skillful and dramatic, so be sure to catch these yarimawashi maneuvers. This year, the festivities will take place on September 13 and 14 (and again on October 11–12). On Saturday, the float parade starts at 6am, and the next day at 9am. It pays to come early, as this is when the floats are moving at their fastest, since the streets are less congested. You can take in the spectacle for free from anywhere in the city, but one popular spot is outside Kispa LaPark, where you can dip in and out of the air-conditioned department store. In the old town, where the roads are narrower (especially along Kishu Kaido Street), the floats appear to be moving faster, and the atmospheric setting will remind you of Japan’s nostalgic Edo period (1603–1867)