Anyone who’s ever gone in for Japanese cocktailing knows the promise of the premise: finely-tuned atmosphere, attention to detail, and pride in high standards of execution. But there is no ‘correct’ version of the experience, only the proprietor’s vision and the realization thereof. Katana Kitten—a split-level Japanese American cocktail bar in Greenwich Village—feels like cocktail master Masahiro Urushido is channeling the Japanese cocktail ethos through a single concept: fun.
It’s clear that KK’s designers kept both American dive bars and Japanese Izakayas on their mood board. The upper floor is like a dress-shirt undone just enough to reveal a wild chest-rocker tattoo: a highly deliberate choice between chaos and decorum. Guests who belly up to the main bar get a front-row seat to the show that produces their drinks, but it’s easy to find a seat apart. Downstairs’ vibes are a tad looser overall and, like all subterranean bars, more vibey. Down there, it’s all about the company you keep with table seating only.
The cocktails here are, in a word, expert. While they aren’t the showiest or most soigné, they aren’t trying to be and are all eminently drinkable. The same ethos that guides the bar’s design extends to the mixology, which is to say accessible yet imaginative, evincing both a sense of humor and commitment to precision. The Mikan Swizzle, for example–sochu, sake, mango, citrus, soda, and cherry–felt like a sipper, that is, until I realized that my glass was empty.
If you’re not into cocktails, Katana Kitten offers a nice selection of Japanese whiskeys, wine by the bottle or glass, a few beers and some sake. The bites—Japanese-ish finger foods and small sandwiches—are all very tasty. While creativity pervades the cocktail menu, it’s somewhat more restrained when it comes to food. That said, the mortadella katsu sando made me wonder where it had been my whole life.
There is no correct way to spend an evening at Katana Kitten—no “right” or “authentic” experience to chase. That said, you won’t be disappointed to go for the Izakaya experience and order round after round of drinks accompanied by curry fries, Katsu sandwiches, or fried squid served with Kewpie mayo and takoyaki sauce. For the full effect, we suggest that you attend with an open-minded friend or two who are down to go on a bit of a boozy adventure through the menu, touring the imagination of one of our foremost cocktail wizards.