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I started at Nuury Chest Nut, the kind of place best tackled with an empty stomach and a clear head. Open since 2000, it hides down Trok Saphan Yuan, a small alley off the main road. The shophouse feels part living room, part old office, with patterned floor tiles, marble tables and shelves of old teapots and brass ornaments. Its menu revolves around chestnuts spooned over ice cream – an oddly specific premise that makes perfect sense once you’’re holding a tub. A few seats in the alley let you watch Song Wat go by, and this street always provides something to look at.
206 Trok Saphan Yuan, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100. Monday–Saturday, 8am-5pm; Sunday, 8am-4pm.