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Abu Essam in Kagurazaka is the spot to enjoy Arabic home cooking that just happens to also be a masterclass in spices and seasoning. Kofta, in its simplest form, is a meatball mixed with spices, with origins tracing back to Persia – and the kofta sandwich at Abu Essam is a masterpiece.
With its charred exterior, you expect a tough bite. Instead, the kofta is incredibly tender; a nice contrast to the crunchy baguette. And the immaculately seasoned minced meat oozes with juice, like liquid gold on your tongue. The simple fillings of tomato, onions and lettuce neither overwhelm nor take away from the star of the show. Pair that with their refreshingly tart and minty lemon mint drink for a spectacular one-two combo.
Besides superb sandwiches, Abu Essam does a dizzying variety of other Arabic staples, from wraps, falafel and kebabs to koshari, Egypt’s national dish, in which pasta, fried rice, lentils, peas, crispy fried onions and a lip-smacking tomato sauce are mixed together to form a carb-lover’s fever dream.
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