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✍️ Time Out Sydney never writes starred restaurant and bar reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills, and anonymously reviews, so that readers can trust our critique. Find out more, here.
By the time you visit South on Albany (and I really hope that after reading this you do), the menu will be different. You know how some restaurants throw around the term “seasonal menu” like it’s a box they need to tick? Well, this charming little cottage-style spot just off Berry’s main drag changes its offering every two or so weeks, depending on what’s growing and what chef and co-owner John Evans (ex-Est, The Northbridge Bistro, 3 Weeds) wants to cook. Had the best dish of your life here? It’ll live on in your memories.
What you can count on, however, is a warm and welcoming experience led by co-owner Sonia Greig, fresh, flavoursome dishes and an all-round delightful time – one that may tempt you to say to hell with it, order another chilled white and stay an extra night (I can think of worse places to spend your time).
The vibe
The couple opened South on Albany in late July 2013, with this year marking their 13th anniversary. That’s no small feat for a restaurant operating in a small town popular with doughnut-lovers and bakery-hoppers on weekends, but which slows mid-week and throughout the cooler months.
The dining room is light-filled and intimate, with tasteful furnishings, hanging pendant lights and local natives dotted around. Sonia greets each guest, pours drinks and runs through the menu with the same zest as if it’s opening week. She tells me one of her regulars has dropped off pink grapefruit for today’s starter. It doesn’t get much more local than that.
The food
South on Albany serves a three-course set menu ($95 per person) – so this isn’t the place for a bite and dash. Upon seating, you’ll be given a menu featuring illustrations by friend and creative Robyn Wakefield – a cute memento to take home. We begin with complimentary local bread and house-made butter while we check out today’s line-up. Today it’s meat as a main (lamb), but they often rotate with a fish option, usually caught in Ulladulla.
A trout salad arrives in a clear small bowl, looking like a fabulous retro dinner party starter. As well as the clean-tasting, buttery fish, it’s filled with chopped cucumber, avo, coriander, pink grapefruit, slices of radish and pops of finger lime, accompanied by a buttermilk dressing that is light and zingy. It’s textural, fresh and juicy.
Our mains are equally vibrant and colourful. Slices of lamb rump come tender and seasoned, the fat well-rendered, paired with a smooth and sweet pumpkin purée, roasted beets, walnuts and just-blanched beans for crunch, and a seriously delicious and savoury swipe-your-finger-through-it port jus. I just don’t think it needs the pops of pomegranate. But I would put that jus on most things.
For dessert, we’re each served our own mandarin and almond cake, moist and singing with citrus flavour, alongside almond praline, tart passionfruit curd and a scoop of lime ice-cream that tastes like a Splice. I’m not a cake person, but this one miraculously disappears. As did every other plate.
The drinks
If you feel like sitting back and letting the team take care of you, go for the matching drinks option ($49 per person). Though, the NSW-heavy drinks list is worthy of you rolling up your sleeves and getting stuck in. A glass of 2023 Usher Tinkler Prosecco from the Hunter ($16) is always a good time, as is a subtle and dry 2025 Two Figs rosé ($15) from the Shoalhaven. Or for a red, try the 2024 Cupitt’s Estate Nebbiolo/pinot noir ($19) from Tumbarumba and Hilltops. Special shout-out to the beer and cider list, too, which boasts at least 14 NSW options. My picks are the Stoic Brewing Hazy Pale Ale from Shoalhaven ($11) and a character-forward Apple Thief William Pear Cider from Wondalga ($11).
Time Out tip
Sonia and John can serve a vegetarian or vegan set menu with a bit of notice. Plus, Wednesdays and Thursdays are BYO (wine only – with a $15 corkage per bottle).
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