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For a suburb literally surrounded by the big blue, there aren’t as many spots to enjoy great seafood overlooking the ocean in Manly as you might think. There’s Garfish across from the Office, popular with the over-50s and home to an excellent seafood pie. Manly Pavilion has beaut views and decent food, and so does the Skiff Club. But when the sun’s shining, the sapphire-blue ocean is shimmering, and a fresh, delicious lunch is on the cards, I’ve got a new favourite spot – and that’s Felons Seafood.
The vibe
Thoughts and prayers to the backpackers, but I’m glad The Bavarian poured its final stein, with Felons Seafood taking over the waterfront site and welcoming guests from June this year. The 300-seat venue, which boasts easy-breezy indoor and outdoor seating, is the latest from mega hospo operators Artemus Group (the team behind Brisbane's Howard Smith Wharves). They also got the keys to Wharf Bar before transforming it into the nearby pumping beer haven, Felons Manly (how good are all the new seats?). And there’s more to come. Remember Aldi? A sprawling microbrewery pub will soon be there.
But back to Felons Seafood, because there’s really a lot to like, starting with the obvious views over Manly Cove, which are nearly good enough to make you call in sick to work and never come back. The smart, sunlit dining room is another, with lots of creams, sandy tones and expansive windows that let the sea do most of the talking. And I’m a big fan of the food, created by two former Rockpool chefs.
Service errs on the (sea)green side. It’s not yet busy when I arrive, and I spot a handful of staff, but it’s a while before I’m greeted and taken to my table. Later, when I ask one of the waitresses where the oysters are from, she replies, “Sydney.” (It’s Merimbula.)
The food
Head chef Luke Bourke brings formidable experience to the Felons Seafood kitchen, having worked at Sydney’s award-winning Rockpool Bar & Grill for close to a decade. He teamed up with fellow Rockpool alumni and current chef-owner of 20 Chapel, Corey Costelloe, to create the menu. Here, Australia’s creatures of the sea are celebrated and beautifully cooked, from king prawns plucked from Ballina’s warm waters to line-caught coral trout from the Whitsundays.
Briny and salty oysters are amped up with kelp vinegar and cucumber mignonette. Thin, crisp tostadas come topped with avocado, fish ceviche singing with citrus and slices of jalapeño, while coral trout arrives golden-skin side up, its meaty flesh succulent and clean-tasting alongside vibrant romesco, aioli and a lemon wedge. There’s a section dedicated to Roman-style pizza, so bases are thin and crisp. My pick is the Calabria, creamy from stracciatella, spicy from ’nduja and balanced with sweet onions. The Greek salad is crunchy, bright and tasty with chopped cucumber, green olives, salty feta and a sprinkle of oregano. To finish, pistachio gelato is silky smooth, and seasonal trifle – like the one your nan makes at Christmas – is served tableside with a side of joy.
The drinks
The drinks list is designed with summertime fun in mind. Take Felons Super Cold Crisp Lager, for example. Poured at -2°C, the team reckons it’s ‘Australia’s coldest lager’. It arrives with ice that melts on my tongue and is crisp and refreshing. Come summer, there’d be no hotter – sorry, colder – drink. Feel like something stronger? Go for the Salt and Vinegar Martini made with Oyster Shell Gin, caperberry brine, dry vermouth and chardonnay vinegar. The wine list is strong, featuring mostly Aussie drops designed to be paired with fresh seafood.
Just like at Felons Manly, all the beers here are Felons. I’d love to see the team support the excellent Northern Beaches or even Sydney brewery community by including a rotating tap – one month it’s Four Pines, another it’s Bucketty’s. My bet is the locals would froth.
Time Out tip
In Manly and craving fish and chips? Felons Seafood is where it’s at. Choose your fighter from a selection of market fish (flathead, luderick, pink ling). Fried until honey-golden and crunchy, it arrives alongside gnarly skin-on fries cooked in tallow, and banging tartare sauce pimped up with pickled Warrigal greens and malt vinegar spiked with Felons IPA. Talk about a winner.
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