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Sydney’s oldest continuously licensed pub recently expanded, with the Fortune of War opening Bistro 1828 – a dining room that gives this beloved Rocks institution room to stretch its legs. For many years (almost 200!) the Fortune has been exactly what you'd expect from an OG Rocks pub: a place to sink a schooner, catch live music and order a reliably hearty pub meal. The problem? It's so popular that it was often too packed to find a table you could sit at to eat. By knocking through into neighbouring heritage shopfronts, the family-run WDS Hotels group (led by husband and wife Steve and Fiona Speed) have almost doubled the venue's dining capacity – without losing the character that's kept people coming back for generations.
The vibe
History is everywhere in Bistro 1828, but it doesn't feel like you're eating inside a museum. The heritage bones remain, with beaten copper panelling, walls painted deep mulberry and forest green, stained-glass windows and grand golden arches framing the space. During the reno, workers uncovered old liquor and medicine bottles, which now sit on display as little reminders of the building's past.
The new bistro is brighter than the original pub, thanks to floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking George Street. Grab a seat by the window if you enjoy a bit of people-watching (that's what me and my friend do), tuck yourself further inside for a quieter meal, or try to nab an alfresco seat under an umbrella on the pavement.
The food
People come to the Fortune of War for pub classics, and executive chef Mark Williamson (formerly of The Woollahra Hotel) has largely stuck to that brief, with hits like beef and Guinness stew, fish and chips and burgers.
I wouldn’t usually order the Greek Lamb Salad ($32) – my friend does, though, and I’m not mad about it, it’s delicious. Tender, flavoursome strips of pulled, slow-cooked lamb are balanced by freshness from rocket, tomato, cucumber, saltiness from olives and fetta, and creaminess from drizzled tzatziki plus hummus for dipping. It’s healthy pub grub done well.
The 250g O’Connor Sirloin Steak ($39) with jus, chips and salad (or your choice of mashed potato and veg) is decent without being world-beating; there’s just so much competition for excellent steaks in Sydney.
Bistro 1828 is also open for breakfast – a nice option if you’re in the city and feel like bacon and eggs (and a Bloody Mary).
The drinks
This is still very much a pub, so beer remains the star – expect well-poured local brews and all the usual favourites on tap. The wine list heroes Australian drops with the addition of whites from France and New Zealand, a couple of reds from Spain, and some sparkling from Italy and France. My favourite part – there are wines from $10 a glass in almost every category (almost unheard of in Sydney outside of happy hour!).
Then there are some cocktails, all $24 or under, including their unusual take on a Martini – the ‘Madame Martini’ with Ketel One vodka, passoa, passionfruit, apple juice, prosecco and whites, and a more trad Hugo Spritz.
Time Out tip
There’s live music on Wednesdays and Thursdays from 6pm, Fridays and Saturdays from 4pm and 8pm and Sundays from 2pm and 6pm.
And, if you need somewhere to stay in the city for the night, rooms at the upstairs’ Russell Boutique Hotel start at $300, including breakfast here at Bistro 1828. It’s also been recently renovated in a way that’s preserved the old-world charm while adding modern-day comforts.
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