It’s a rainy Sunday afternoon, and from my wildly (pun intended) comfy bed, I’m watching a bank of clouds push through the city, chasing ferries across the harbour. The view looks like it was plucked from an album of the world’s most relaxing cityscapes: just plants, water and the skyline beyond. The Opera House stands in the centre with its unrelenting elegance, unphased by the oppressive clouds, and the Harbour Bridge cuts its iconic arc through the mist that pushes down on the city to the west. A view like this – an uninterrupted vista punctuated by Sydney’s most famous landmarks – is exceptionally hard to come by. Taking into account the koala who’s hugging the tree to my left, I'd be forgiven for thinking I’d entered an AI simulation of Australia. In reality though, I was splayed on the bed of one of the 62 carefully designed rooms at the Wildlife Retreat at Taronga: a far more desirable, similarly surreal place to spend a weekend.
Wildlife Retreat at Taronga is – as the name suggests – located in the heart of Taronga Zoo, Sydney’s most well-known conservation-focused zoo. And though you can be up close and personal with Taronga’s pygmy hippos, giraffes and elephants in under ten minutes, the sanctuary in which the Retreat is built feels totally secluded.
Why stay at Wildlife Retreat at Taronga?
The main appeal here is, of course, the zoo – Sydney’s historic harbourside institution that encases the Retreat. From your bedroom’s floor-to-ceiling windows, you’ll watch kangaroos grazing on the grounds and koalas snoozing lazily in the trees. Animal enthusiasts: this is the hotel that your zoo-keeper dreams are made of.
What are the rooms like at Wildlife Retreat at Taronga?
Although – with such a unique location – the Retreat could get away with providing very basic accommodation, the rooms are worthy of a stay in their own right: comfy and spacious and flooded with light. The interiors – while perfectly functional – are a little dated, so if a trendy aesthetic is your priority, this might not be the stay for you.
Which are the best restaurants at Wildlife Retreat at Taronga?
In the vast, safari-style hotel lobby, you’ll find an all-day bar serving coffees, a simple selection of snacks and a cocktail menu is inspired by animals (I order the ‘Night Owls’: a whisky-spiked concoction that comes garnished with a delightfully-boozy gingerbread). Stocked with board games and comfy sofas, and with a sun-drenched wraparound terrace boasting uninterrupted views of Sydney Harbour, the Retreat’s lobby bar is an unbeatable spot for a sundowner.
Me Gal restaurant – named after the Cammeraigal word for ‘tears’, an ode to the surrounding saltwater shoreline – is located on the first floor of the Retreat, with vast windows offering elevated views of the harbour. The focus here is on heroing fresh, locally-sourced produce through a menu that changes with the seasons.
We order a plate of freshly shucked oysters which are perfectly, divinely creamy, and doused in a sweetly zingy desert lime, cucumber and dill mignonette. I could have eaten four servings of the same, but we decide to branch out, ordering the stracciatella with heirloom tomatoes that sings with lemon myrtle and aleppo pepper. We’re told this dish is best enjoyed with a plate of sourdough and whipped wattle seed and ricotta butter, and don’t argue. For our mains, we order Murray River cod that comes crowned in mustard leaves and dashi, along with broccolini with walnuts and feta and an absurdly creamy beetroot risotto. There’s tiramisu on the menu, so we’re morally obliged to order dessert.
What is the service like at Wildlife Retreat at Taronga?
To work at Taronga, it’s kind-of a pre-requisite that you’re an animal lover – and that kindness shines through in the service. Staff are warm and seem to love their jobs, and with views that beautiful and neighbours that cute, we can’t blame them.
Is there a gym or pool at Wildlife Retreat at Taronga?
There’s no gym or pool on site, but the Mosman area is a beautiful place for a jog, and there are beautiful harbour beaches within a short walk from the hotel for a saltwater swim.
What’s the area like around Wildlife Retreat at Taronga?
Directly surrounding the hotel, Taronga Zoo is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful zoos in the world. Set into the sloping harbour, the 28 hectare oasis is home to more than 4,000 animals, many of whom you’ll be able to meet on a private tour as a guest of the Retreat. During our stay, we’re taken on a morning tour of the aviary where rare birds swoop between the trees and some of Taronga’s Tassie devils nap in cosy corners. All guests of the Retreat have two daily tours plus access to the zoo included, so you can spend your days exploring the grounds and meeting all of the local creatures. In nearby Mosman, one of the city’s wealthier suburbs, you’ll find streets lined with high-end boutiques, ritzy beauty salons and a smattering of very good op shops.
Why you should you book a stay at Wildlife Retreat at Taronga
With room rates starting at around $555 per night, a stay here isn't cheap, but nor should it be. The accommodation – though lacking an on-site spa that many of Sydney's most luxurious hotels boast as standard – is hyper-comfortable, the views are excellent, the restaurant is on-point and the neighbours are second-to-none. Plus, revenue from the Retreat goes towards supporting Taronga's vital conservation efforts – so you’re not the only one benefitting from your overnighter.
Address: 2a Bradleys Head Road, Mosman NSW 2088
Price per night: From $550.
Closest transport link: Ferries run from Circular Quay straight to the zoo, or you can catch the 100 bus from Wynyard station in the CBD.
Book now: Over here.