The new Club Street Laundry is anything but a laundromat, but the restaurant does pay homage to its past life as Hup San Laundry, frequented by second-generation immigrants nearly a century ago. The “Hup San” name also lives on in Hup San Social Club, the cocktail bar in the basement, inspired by the many Chinese social clubs that once lined the street in the early 1900s.
If you’re looking for a place to people-watch, Club Street Laundry fits the bill perfectly. The breezy, open-concept bistro has high tables perched along walkways, staring out at the charming shophouses around the neighbourhood. You’ll quickly spot the happy hour board splashed out with $15 house wines, tap cocktails, and full-pint Peronis from 4pm to 7pm on weekdays.
The menu is positioned as modern-Australian, but really, Chef Justin Hammond (previously from Neon Pigeon and Underdog Inn) works his way around any and every flavour profile just fine, with dishes based off his travels around the world.
We have no qualms devouring the flame-grilled beef cheeks which sit atop a bed of buttery mash ($33). Cooked overnight in a master-stock of dashi, orange peel, star anise and other spices, the beef comes out fork-tender without even a need for chewing, and the ahi verde (a type of South American pesto) adds pleasant acidity to each bite.
Despite our biases against the usual beurre blanc, fennel, dill and fish combination, the charcoal-grilled sea bream ($31) turns out excellently executed. Pickled fennel graces the top of the sea bream for a respite from the richness of that lemon-caper sauce, and the fish is as fresh as it gets, with a nice and slightly bitter char on the skin.
The charred leeks ($15) are Chef Justin’s memories of his mother’s stuffed chicken and leek dish on a plate. Garlic croutons stand in place of chicken stuffing, while fried sage leaves are added for an herby touch. Even the gravy is a sticky, collagen-rich chicken stock reduction. But for an easy table favourite, order the wood-fired mushrooms ($15) instead, featuring king oyster and maitake mushrooms with celeriac cream and chives.
Some seven cocktails (from $18) grace the menu here, most of which are on the refreshing, spritzy end of the spectrum. These are all courtesy of June Baek, Hup San’s Beverage Director. For a true taste of Baek’s mastery, you’ll want to retreat into Hup San Social Club once you’re done with dinner for the full experience.
The vibe
Open and breezy. If you’re looking for a place to people-watch, Club Street Laundry fits the bill, with high tables perched along walkways looking out onto the street.
The food
The menu is positioned as modern-Australian, but Chef Justin Hammond throws in influences from all around the world as well as his personal memories.
The drink
There's a selection of seven cocktails (from $18) on the spritzy, refreshing side. Or drop by between 4pm to 7pm on weekdays to score $15 house wines, tap cocktails, and full pints of Peroni.
Time Out tip
Retreat into Hup San Social Club once you’re done with your meal. It's a snug 12-seater bunker busting out delicious cocktails by award-winning bartender June Baek.