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We've seen chicken rice in the $20 range, but would you double that and pay $46 for a plate of our national dish, served in a Japanese restaurant no less? At Barrel: Story of Hibiki, that isn't a hypothetical question, it's reality. Read on to find out more.
What is Barrel: Story of Hibiki?
In a city awash with casual yakitori joints and sake bars, Barrel arrives with a different proposition: What if the humble izakaya went couture? Backed by Suntory and said to be the first Hibiki-focused concept outside of Japan, this new restaurant on Cecil Street elevates the after-work drinking experience, adding polish and style beyond the usual beers and fries. At Barrel, the sauces are layered and sometimes whisky-infused – with Hibiki, of course – while the dishes, though still casual and snackable, are dressed up a notch.
The space
Barrel occupies a space that once housed notable F&B concepts like The Black Swan and Rosemead. Guests familiar with those restaurants will recognise the high ceilings, now complemented by reclaimed cask wood panels from Suntory's distilleries – a unique touch you won't find elsewhere. The main dining area is clad in dark wood and textured stone for a sleek, moody look, with well-positioned tables and semi-private dining areas for extra comfort. While the ambience is more composed and elegant than raucous izakayas where diners are packed back-to-back, it's still casual enough to feel like you don't have to put on airs or speak in a hushed tone.
A 10-seater counter encircling an open woodfire (made of wood from Hibiki barrels) serves as the restaurant's centrepiece. Grab a seat here if you don't mind a bit of heat and want to catch the chefs up close. But even if not, most of the tables are angled towards the woodfire, so you'll get a slice of the action anyway. The rest of Barrel is equally gorgeous. Visit the spacious terrace outside, which comes alive from 3pm to 7pm daily, thanks $9 highballs during Happy Hour. It gets especially breezy and vibey after sunset – perfect for winding down after work.
Below the main hall sits The Vault. Once a bank vault, the space has been transformed into a zen eight-seater private dining room, entirely lined with reclaimed cask wood from Suntory distilleries in Japan. A faint aroma of aged whisky greets you as you descend into the basement, and the warm lighting sets the scene for slow sips and conversations that last through the evening. Separate bookings and a minimum spend apply, so check Barrel's website for more details.
Otsumami and chicken rice get creative
Chef-partner Sho Naganuma pushes the food beyond the straightforward grilled dishes you'd find at a run-of-the-mill izakaya. While he also helms the cult-favourite Torasho Ramen & Charcoal Bar at Tras Street, the menu at Barrel is a different animal. Familiar items like the Cold Stupid Ramen ($78) and tonkotsu ramen ($15) are included, but that's about the extent of the Torasho influence. Here are other plates to consider instead: the prosciutto and cream cheese-wrapped maki ($18 for four pieces), with seasonal fruit ranging from Shine Muscat grapes to strawberries. Meanwhile, the suckling pig belly ($22) comes with crisp crackling and Chinese spice, lifted with a dab of Japanese mustard.
The Tonsoku Harumaki ($12 per piece) features melty, well-rendered chunks of braised pig's trotter, sticky with fat and encased in a crispy spring roll shell. Each parcel is deeply savoury and hearty – definitely for those who love robust, meaty flavours. Till now, we've been grazing through the Ostumami section of the menu, a selection of plates meant for pairing with drinks. And our has got to be the Uni-Corn croquette ($24 for two pieces). Each golden-brown piece is stuffed with sweet creamed corn and corn bits, drizzled with butter sauce and crowned with a luscious serving of seawater-rich uni. Truly indulgent.
Now step aside, Chatterbox, because Barrel might have just set a new record for Singapore's most expensive chicken rice. We're not even talking $20 to $30, but a staggering $46 for a plate of free-range French chicken, poached and cooked in chicken fat, topped with Oscietra caviar and doused in a Hibiki whisky-laced oyster sauce for the finishing touch. It's as fancy as chicken rice gets, served with a side of chicken stock-infused Japanese pearl rice.
While the chicken is sufficiently tender, it lacks the distinct gelatinous layer beneath the skin that's characteristic of any great rendition of the dish. The whisky in the oyster sauce is detectable and adds a subtle sweetness, but doesn't meaningfully deepen its flavour. And then there's the caviar, which frankly feels more gratuitous than considered. At $46, it's worth trying once just for the novelty, but it's unlikely to become a repeat order for us.
The aburi wagyu donabe ($68), on the other hand, feels worthy of its price tag – unlike the chicken rice, you won't easily find an equally satisfying version elsewhere for much less. While the A5 aburi A5 wagyu is stellar, the rice steals the show. Folded with cured egg yolk, plenty of green onions and nori, each bite is textural, buttery and highly addictive. Do note that the dish takes about 40 minutes to prepare. And while we didn't get to try it personally, the Ember Roast Chicken ($48), paired with house-made yaki miso and shiro negi confit, reportedly earns rave reviews.
No meal here is complete without dessert. Barrel's Hokkaido soft serve ranges from a classic without toppings ($8), to versions with Kokuto salted caramel ($10), organic honey, Maldon salt and Hibiki ($12) – our pick – or a luxurious cup capped with honey and Royal Oscietra caviar ($26). And for those who prefer a more straightforward dining experience, Barrel also offers structured dining formats, including two-course ($55) or three-course ($63) lunch sets, and chef-curated menus for dinner ($128 per person, minimum two diners).
Whisky to start and whisky to end
All that eating is bound to leave you parched. It's no secret that bars tend to go heavy-handed on seasoning to keep the drink orders flowing. And Barrel's smoked nuts and raisins ($8) are proof. To quench your thirst, flip through the drinks menu, where you'll find everything from whisky by the glass to Hibiki flights, whisky-infused cocktails and more. Simpler profiles pair beautifully with food, like the Hibiki mizuwari or highball ($18 each), while adventurous sippers can try the Hibiki Sling ($28) – a Japanese twist on the Singapore Sling – or the Japanese Crane Sour ($28) with orange liqueur and bitters. For headier concoctions, there's the standard Hibiki On The Rocks ($18) or Barrel's Godfather ($28) with notes of banana, apricot and oak.
Apart from the eight signature Hibiki cocktails, there are eight more on the menu featuring other Suntory spirits. The Citrus Twist Sour ($22) reinvents the Japanese lemon sour – a quintessential izakaya order – while the Matcha Coco ($26) is a spin on the popular matcha coconut drink, spiked with Haku rice vodka. Unfortunately, the latter leans much too syrupy and unbalanced, allowing neither component to shine.
For whisky purists, the restaurant boasts one of the most extensive collections of Suntory whiskies in Asia, stocking everything from Hibiki Japanese Harmony to its iconic 21 and 30-year expressions. A unique part of the Barrel experience is the whisky flights. At launch, six are available, featuring three drinks each. The most affordable of the lot is a $38 Story of Hibiki flight, where Hibiki Japanese Harmony is served in three formats – highball, on the rocks, and mizuwari. There's also a $188 Hibiki 100th Anniversary Edition flight if you're feeling extra bougie, and even one called The Barrel, which is priced at a tear-jerking $988.
Time Out says: 4/5
Find out more about Barrel here.
Barrel Story of Hibiki is located at 19 Cecil St, Singapore 049704. Operating hours are Mondays to Saturdays from noon to 11pm.
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