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On the southern edge of the Butte-aux-Cailles, quaint and clean Hôtel St-Charles has had a serious revamp and is now resolutely design-orientated. Rooms are small, but cosy in steely tones of grey and mauve. The all-white bathrooms are spotless, and there’s a wee patio for evening aperitifs. This is a top spot for escapism from the crowds and easy bistro access. In fact, you’re so close to the Butte-aux-Cailles that you could skip the hotel breakfast and nip out for a Parisian style café and croissant on a leafy terrace.