A couple of years ago, Telly’s owners transformed a dowdy (if authentic) taverna into an impressive space with polished wood floors and a shiny brass bar. No choice can be bad, but we still advise consulting the friendly waitstaff. Fish is grilled with olive oil, salt, lemon juice and fresh oregano, and served whole. It’s served on its own, so take the opportunity to order appetizers like tsatsiki—the garlicky yogurt is mixed with deep-fried feta cheese. Telly’s doesn’t offer dessert or coffee, but you won’t leave hungry.