Stretch Pizza

Wylie Dufresne is a self-proclaimed tinkerer. This is the man who invented fried mayonnaise cubes and wispy, thin bacon strips at wd~50, his legendary New York restaurant in the Lower East Side. Now he's taking a similar approach at Stretch Pizza, going big with everything bagel spice and cream cheese sauce on slices and pies that taste like dan dan noodles. Don't be mistaken: Stretch knows how to do simple well too, serving a classic NY slice anchored by an airy, crunchy crust that will make any New Yorker tip their hat. 

The vibe: The Stretch Pizza location in Williamsburg feels like a grab-and-go shop, since it sits just a stone's throw from the waterfront on Kent Avenue. But sitting with your slice is definitely an option, with a modest number of wooden tables and red chairs spread across the gray-and-white checkered floor of the triangle-shaped dining room. Decor is minimal, with the most eye-catching piece being a framed collection of international pizza boxes on loan from Scott Weiner of Scott's Pizza Tours. Order at the counter, take a gander at the pizza action back there, then find a seat.   

The food: Yes, Dufrense has been known to put carnitas and fingerling potatoes on pizzas. But for us, a benchmark of a good New York pizza is perfecting the New York slice, something that the Stretch team has done incredibly well. The classic slice keeps things simple with a tart ladle of tomato sauce, mozzarella, a few sprigs of basil and curls upon curls of Parmesan cheese. The crust folds with a crunch you can hear, and you will hear it, each and every time you take a bite. As for the Metro Slice, the breaded bits of spicy chicken parm could easily be thrown into a sandwich, served up with a slather of red sauce and we wouldn't be mad. But we are also happy that it is on a pie, served a touch brighter with dollops of pesto cream. As for dessert, something is always swirling in the soft serve machine, and the current seasonal scoop spoons like the custardy insides of a pumpkin pie. Get it—you won't be disappointed.  

The drink: There are a few cocktails to take advantage of here, some of which are on tap, plus beers and wines by the glass.

Time Out tip: The XXL mozzarella schtick was once a joke item. But it seems it found its audience, as the forearm-sized stick is here to say. Despite its size, the mozzarella stick stays consistent: coated in a shower of cheese, crunchy and hot, with a damn good cheese pull. It is so big it comes in a churro sleeve, or rather a modesty sleeve, if you don’t want to show off your foot-long bite to the rest of the crowd. All we can say is, bring a friend or two to share this one.