Nico Russell's whole thing is using what's sprouting from the ground and turning it into something special. He built a name for himself by doing exactly that at Oxalis, the pop-up-turned-permanent restaurant whose hyper-seasonal, Michelin-starred tasting menu was one of the more affordable in the city (now transformed into Cafe Mado). But soon, Russell and his team—including beverage director Piper Kristensen and partner and co-founder Steve Wong—were ready to lean into a more casual realm. And they did so with Place des Fêtes. Much like how Oxalis got its start, Place des Fêtes followed as a pop-up, albeit with some permanence, launching in Oxalis's alleyway during COVID times. Two years later, a more formal brick-and-mortar debuted in Clinton Hill with such buzz that reservations were nearly impossible and lines were a constant feature. Now that the wave has transitioned to a steady trickle of clientele, the restaurant and bar has settled into what it always intended to be: a laid-back find where the wine is as intentional as the small plates before you.
The vibe: Think of a neighborhood wine bar. Somehow, some way, you've probably conjured something close to Place des Fêtes. The front area reads cheffy and new, with whitewashed brick and a marble bar with wines stacked up behind it. The kitchen? Chefs chop, sear and plate dishes in an open format, viewable by all with just the flick of the eye. Just past it is the second dining room, which reads rustic—like you're housed within a 120-year-old Brooklyn brownstone (which, in fact, you are). The back is a bit more lived in as the ceilings are brassy and tin, brick peeks through breaks in the concrete and there's a skylight that gives a soft glow to it all. Yet no matter where you plunk down, there's a sense of vibrancy here, whether catching up over a few glasses or diving into a meal at one of the community tables.
The food: You can always pick and choose a few small plates if your purpose is to yap and drink, or it is entirely possible to ply the table for a full meal; really, the choice is yours. The style of eating here is tapas, and the restaurant leans heavily on sustainable selections from the sea, and so should you when ordering. There are a few items that have stayed on since day one, such as the Bangs Island Mussels En Verde. Here, juicy mussels are blanketed in a vibrant and herby sauce that only asks to be mopped with a swipe of bread (the restaurant is currently sourcing thick hunks from Laurel Bakery—yum). But the chalkboard in the back is constantly written and rewritten with what sways the kitchen. On a recent visit, that meant thin—damn near translucent—ribbons of lightly sweetened bonny melon, brightened with pops of basil and mint.
The drinks: Wine, of course! All you have to do is tell your server or the somm what you fancy, and they will enthusiastically rattle off bottles and notes until you find one that fits. But if a sense of adventure has taken hold, ask about the wine roulette that cycles through New World varietals to chilled reds.
Time Out tip: A nod to Russell's talented way with veggies, even the desserts go green. The current Cucumber Sorbet is like biting into a cuke but even more refreshing, made so with a few shakes of good, flaky salt and simple squeezes of olive oil.