College students, firefighters and Riverdale locals flee the neighborhood’s pretensions at this longtime Bronx hangout. Gnarled-wood booths allow good views of four TVs, but the overall effect is more of a refined pub than a sports bar. Weekend brunch is a great deal: For $12.95, diners get unlimited mimosas, Bloody Marys or draft beers, plus a choice of any of the well-stuffed omelettes or mouth-widening, flavorful burgers.