If you were trust-fund rich, Orsay would be the kind of place you’d eat three times a week. The food is good enough to please those with refined tastes, but the laid-back brasserie atmosphere is far less stuffy than that of other eateries at these prices. The menu changes with the seasons, but expect perfectly cooked steak frites served with a choice of sauces, a top-quality raw bar, and more inventive dishes, including a flavorful stew of cod, seasoned with rosemary, bay leaves and vegetables. Desserts are surprisingly impressive, especially the classic tarte Tatin or the rich chocolate tart.