Ops

For over a decade, Bushwick’s Ops has worn the title of "neighborhood eatery" quite well, thanks to its tangy and puffed sourdough pies and natural wines, all served in a space that's cozy and inviting. Now, Manhattan is getting the same treatment with the beloved eatery's East Village outpost. Popular dishes crossed the bridge too, as did a lineup of tavernetta-style pies.  

The vibe: While the lights flickered on just a few months ago, the pizzeria naturally gives off a lived-in vibe. Curved red woods mimic the heavy-wood interior of its sister original location, but there is more space to be had here with 60 seats inside and 20 street-side seats that open up when the weather is warm. Whether you are sitting at a red banquette or at the bar near the kitchen, conversations hum with ease, making the space a shoo-in for a catch-up with friends or a date night spot.

The food: Ops' greatest hits have carried over, including the Rojo pizza with its blanket of mortadella and the Cicero pie with a whole mess of onions. But with an electric oven leftover from the previous tenant, Fadem channels his childhood in St. Louis by rolling out cracker-thin pizzas. Found under the "Tavernetta" part of the menu, you can try three of these Midwestern pies: the classic with cheese; the Pissaladiere with a spread of anchovies, olives and a ton of sweet and jammy onions; and the Hawaiian, with, you guessed it, pineapples and ham. Fadem's nostalgia continues on with plates of gooey lasagna, something that should be ordered and shared. 

The drink: Back in the day, Ops initially started out as a wine bar that just happened to have pizza. While the concept may have flipped on its head, Ops still has a solid line of natural wines by the glass and bottle. There are a few cocktails, many of which add amaro to the mix.

Time Out tip: Before you fill up too quickly on pizza and red sauce, save a little room for dessert. The flourless cake with an airy plop of whipped ricotta on top is an easy sell.