Muku

Tribeca's Muku has already achieved quite a milestone, and it hasn't even hit the six-month mark. In fact, two months after it opened, the tasting counter received a star from the Michelin Guide, the fastest awardee in NYC on record. And it is all due to chef Manabu Asanuma's personal approach to kaiseki cuisine.  

The vibe: Tucked next to sister restaurants L’Abeille and L’Abeille a Côte, Muku operates in the former Sushi Ichimura space. If you used to frequent the sushi counter, you may recognize that little has changed, minus the addition of another gorgeous golden mural—this one dating back to the 17th century. It's a beautiful, serene scene, framed by tsuchikabe walls and a handsome, 10-seat counter. The vibe at the seemingly formal restaurant is convivial: I quickly made nice with repeat visitors who were more than giddy to rattle off favorite dishes from their last meal. 

The food: Over 10 courses, Asanuma takes diners through kaiseki and its five signifying elements: raw, grilled, simmered, steamed and fried. Sishes rotate quite frequently, but a recent visit yielded raw preparations of mackerel and snapper, grilled rockfish in a sticky-sweet white miso marinade and king crab, whose claws and legs Asanuma personally seared over an intimidating grill at the counter. We can only hope that Asanuma's soba noodles have some permanence, as the toothy, woodsy noodles are made with grains sourced from his family's farm in Yamagata Prefecture. The add-ons were just as good, including a luxe uni noodle with a bump of caviar and curried crab that had just the right amount of warmth and spice. But even without them, you'll leave full enough as the steamed rice course—ours came with sawara (Spanish mackerel) and earthy pops of sansho—includes a second helping if you want it.

The drinks: Thumb through the leather-bound book to peruse sakes, wines and beers for the drinking. There was a single cocktail on the menu, featuring vodka infused with sansho pepper. If you order sake, be prepared to admire the glassware—it comes from the owners' private collection.

Time Out tip: Seating starts promptly at 5:30pm or 8:30pm—arrive a hair earlier, and you will have to wait outside as the entryway can hold the host stand and not much else. Luckily, they've built out a vestibule with chairs and heaters to stay warm. Although you're always welcome to stop by the sister restaurants next door for a drink.