Maria Loi made her name as a smiling blond presiding over Hellenic cooking show It's All Greek. These days she's dishing out modern Athenian plates, like meat patties with a feta-mousse sauce or braised-lamb shank with corn puree, at this Upper West Side restaurant. The space is decorated with a white beach-wood bar and murals of Nafpaktos, Loi's adopted hometown on the Corinthian gulf.