John’s of 12th Street

You can imagine some ’50s beatnik taking his date to John’s for a rough-around-the-edges romantic dinner. The place has been here for 100 years, and it’s a fine example of its type—caramel-colored vinyl booths, Chianti bottles dripping with candle wax, and pasta with any of ten sauces (from simple garlic, oil and anchovies to rich carbonara). Comfort yourself with the usual: minestrone; mozzarella, basil and tomato; tiramisu topped with chocolate shavings. Or try one of the faultless nightly specials: a bruschetta of the celebrated garlic bread, layered with avocado and diced tomatoes, or veal scaloppine al limone with spaghetti. It’s not fancy, but everything feels just right.