A name like Hawksmoor conjures a steakhouse of the old-school era—dark woods and dim corners that curl with smoke. But the New York location of the London-born import is nothing of the sort. The modern-day steakhouse is a marvel, as the cavernous dining hall implores you to look up and gaze upon its 30-foot vaulted ceilings and original crown molding. Such glorious environs feel almost church-like, which tracks, as the dry-aged, Sunday Roast is as close to a religious experience that you can get.
The vibe: Occupying the former United Charities Building, the steakhouse exudes a certain level of grandness. A server keyed me in on the details: anything above the greenish-blue paint on the walls is an original of the building, from the aforementioned ceilings to the restored stained glass. Yet, likely due to both, Hawksmoor is a bit of a noisy one, as sound easily reverberates for a louder-than-average steakhouse. But it isn't just the jovial laughter of button-down businessmen that you'll hear, as the dining hall is filled with young people and even families who are here to be wowed.
The food: A funny little thing I noticed, the hostess and the waitstaff each commented on the massive size of the menus before handing them off. They aren't wrong—they require two hands and easily take up your respective corners of the table. But it doesn't take much to thumb through, as the steakhouse divvies up into the usual suspects: oysters and starters, then steaks and sides. Oysters are treated to scotch bonnet mignonettes if you so choose, though there is very little to no spice to be found. The Vietnamese-inspired sauce of ginger and soy holds more interest and has fried onions for crunch. But to be honest, regular old plain may just be preferred. But of course, you come for the steak, which you choose from dry-aged, charcoal-grilled varieties straight off the menu or point to the chalkboard that spells out specials of the day. My friend and I split the rib eye, which hit all the notes: a good, solid crust, fatty in places and lean in the others. You can up the ante with some sauces, including bearnaise or make things more decadent with bone marrow. Even better? This is a steakhouse that puts sustainability first. Beyond sourcing beef 300 miles from the restaurant, Hawksmoor became the first steakhouse in the U.S. to become B Corp certified. Now that's a steakhouse with some sense.
The drinks: Each Hawksmoor location bears the same six drinks, known as The Sacred Six. We say start here for their tried and true tipples, including the Full-Fat Old Fashioned that's stirred smooth with salted brown butter and the Sour Cherry Negroni that's a tart spin on the original. Naturally, the martinis are chilled, and even get a cold glass refresh, and wines are certainly around, poured by the glass or served by the bottle.
Time Out tip: Step one: order the Beef Fat Fries. Step two: get a side of the bone marrow gravy. Step three: feast.