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I’m a born and bred New Yorker (BK all day!) and yet my knowledge of the Erie Canal was admittedly limited to the Wikipedia-level basics. However, a nearly weeklong jaunt through Western New York this summer—from Buffalo through Rochester through Syracuse, with a side of Niagara Falls and several Stars Hollow-esque small towns in between—gave me not only a deep historical rundown on “The Nation’s First Superhighway” and how it impacted both the growth of New York State and the U.S. as an economic and cultural powerhouse, but also a keen, lively sense of how that past still plays out in the region’s present.
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If you, too, seemingly dozed off during U.S history, here’s a quick little 101 course: The Erie Canal was the first navigable waterway connecting the Atlantic Ocean to the Great Lakes, making things way cheaper, faster and easier to transport both people and goods across the mighty Appalachian Mountains. The canal’s completion in October 1825 transformed New York City into the nation’s principal seaport and vastly accelerated its presence in the global economy—literally putting the “empire” in Empire State—and also opened up the interior of North America to settlement. Those are some pretty hefty bonafides for one artificial water channel.
If you already did the math, you’ll note that the Erie Canal is celebrating its big 200th anniversary next month, a bicentennial packed with boat parades, river circuses, historical reenactments, community gatherings and more. And should you be headed upstate to join the festivities this fall—which you should, whether you’re a history buff, a food lover, a culture vulture or simply want to see some seriously excellent foliage—we’ve broken down where you should stay, what you should eat and how you should spend your time in tribute to a true New York icon.
Where to stay:
The Richardson Hotel, Buffalo
Designated a National Historic Landmark back in 1986, The Richardson is an architecture nerd’s dream: The red-sandstone Romanesque structure was designed by renowned architect H.H. Richardson, with the surrounding grounds created by Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux—yes, the talented fellas behind both Central Park and Prospect Park.
A onetime mental asylum turned boutique hotel (it reopened as the latter in March 2023), the grand property has preserved old-school elements like lofty, high-ceiling corridors and the lobby’s gorgeous grand staircase, but warmed up those abandoned wards with comfortable guest rooms, local artwork and modern amenities. (Speaking of, the on-site bar and restaurant were under renovation at the time of my stay, with a very basic continental breakfast served in its stead, but the space looked very midcentury-luxe when I took a sneak peek.)
Woodcliff Spa & Resort, Fairport
Looking for much–needed rest and relaxation after a day of hiking, biking or kayaking along the Erie? Named the Best New Spa in the U.S. by American Spa Magazine (yes, that’s a thing) last year, the Woodcliff offers a wide array of deep-muscle massages, hydrolifting facials, Turkish body scrubs, red light therapy and other bespoke wellness experiences.
And beyond those serenity-inducing treatments, the rest of the property is equally relxing, with a nine-hole golf course, sunbathing patio, fitness center, and both indoor and outdoor pools. The thoughtfully appointed guest rooms range from deluxe King rooms to two-floor suites: I stayed in the single-level Executive Suite, which features a fireplace-warmed living room and wet bar, a spacious bathroom with a Jacuzzi get tub and a large, luxurious bed with 250-thread count linens.
What to eat:
Remedy House, Buffalo
This sunny, yellow-accented coffee bar sweetly occupies the corner of Rhode Island and W Utica Streets, serving seasonal lattes—think tahini-honey, lavender-vanilla and maple-cardamom, among others—as well as a variety of eggs-on-a-roll breakfast options that you can jazz up with lox, prosciutto or pastrami. With its crepe benedicts, pan bagnats and linger-a-while vibe, Remedy House brings a little French je ne sais quoi to Buffalo’s Five Points neighborhood.
Southern Junction Barbecue, Buffalo
It may seem curious to go even more north for classic Southern food, but this Buffalo-based ’cue favorite brings you those classic Texas flavors without having to travel beyond the Mason Dixon. This is a no-frills operation, with diners lining up to have cafeteria-style trays piled high with sliced brisket, saucy spare ribs and smoked kielbasa—make sure to leave room for that cardamom cornbread—so there is usually a line winding out the joint. Pro tip: Have a friend go order drinks from the attached barroom so you can sip while you wait.
Lake Effect Ice Cream, Lockport
What better way to cap off a day spent cruising through the canal and its famous locks in a packet boat than with an ice-cream stop? At Lockport’s Lake Effect Ice Cream, those small-batch scoops are far more exciting than your basic vanilla bean, from Black Sesame to Butterbeer to Blue Moon (a bright-blue churn that tastes just like your childhood bowls of Fruity Pebbles).
Redd Wood, Rochester
The oldest continuously operating brewery in New York State (it was founded in 1878) Genessee Brewing Company serves it iconic lineup of beers—including Genessee, Genny Light and The Original Genesee Cream Ale—at its Cataract Street brewpub, which also acts as a pilot brewery, gift shop and interactive museum. After feasting on a laidback lineup of Bavarian pretzels, chicken wings and that Rochester signature, the garbage plate (a mess of fries, macaroni salad, meat sauce and your choice of chopped hot dog or hamburger), grab a pint and head for the roof, which offers stunning views of the nearby High Falls.
Pittsford Farms Dairy, Pittsford
Founded in 1888, this charming dairy-slash-bakery just off the Erie Canal bike path uses farm-fresh local milk in a wide array of from-scratch ice creams (available as fudge-topped sundaes, banana splits, affogatos and more) and baked goods. Grab a cone while you peruse the pastry cases titillating stocked with cinnamon brioche, berry chiboust, hazelnut gateaus, peanut-butter bombs and more.
Salt City Market, Syracuse
Downtown Syracuse’s food scene is a refreshingly diverse one, and this colorfully muralled food hall is delicious proof. Along with a cafe-bar, grocery store, teaching kitchen and playground for the kiddos, the market features 10 independently-owned food stalls—you can get Vietnamese comfort foods like pho ga and congee chicken at Mamma Hai, Jamaican classics like jerk chicken and curry goat at Erma's Island, and street-style birria tacos and Mexican elote at ElleRae’s Taco, among others.
Inka’s, Syracuse
Opened in November, this upscale Peruvian restaurant puts some fusion spins on South American classics. The extensive menu—which is matched by maximalist interiors that include oversized chandeliers, neon signs and winding greenery throughout—has all the traditional go-tos (fresh ceviche, frothy Pisco sours) but also Nikkei-style plates (a.k.a. Peruvian cuisine wth Japanese influences) including sashimi-like tiraditos and causa-inspired maki rolls.
Where to play:
If you’re a museum lover…
When it comes to modern and contemporary art, Buffalo’s AKG Art Museum rivals any institution downstate, with a permanent collection populated by Georges Braque, Frido Kahlo, Henri Matisse, Piet Mondrian, Georgia O’Keefe, Pablo Picasso and a significant number of works by Marisol. Photography more your medium? Head to the George Eastman Museum in Rochester, the oldest photography museum in the world. Housed in the stunning former estate of the late Eastman—the founder of Kodak and an early film pioneer—the space features rotating photo exhibitions, regular film screenings, frequent talks, music recitals and more. (And if that’s not enough, the gorgeous gardens alone are worth the trip.)
If you’re a thrill seeker…
Obviously, you must see Niagara Falls if you’re in Western New York. And while a soaked stroll through the Cave of the Winds—an outdoor deck built directly into the gorge at Niagara Falls State Park, letting you feel all of that spray and strength up close—is certainly an exciting way to experience the iconic cascades, you can get an even more unexpected view at the Live on Air Fallview Balloon Ride. North America’s largest tethered helium balloon lets you soar 500 feet above the waterfalls, offering incredible 360-degree views of Niagara Falls and the surrounding landscape.
If you’re a history buff…
Along with the economic and engineering significance of the Erie Canal, the waterway was also a conduit of change, from women’s rights to the abolitionist movement. And, naturally, there are many attractions paying homage to that historical clout. Housed in an 1850 weighlock building in Syracuse, the Erie Canal Museum takes visitors through the conception and construction of the canal chronologically, with hands-on exhibits that showcase what it was like to live canalside way back when. Speaking of, the Buffalo Maritime Center has constructed a full-sized replica of the Seneca Chief, a canal boat that first cruised along the Erie when it was completed in 1825—you can explore aboard the reconstructed vessel at the city’s Commercial Slip and, come September 24, watch as it sets off for the New York Harbor to commemorate that inaugural journey 200 years ago.