SoBo 20

Not far from the lobby of the InterContinental hotel lies a tribute to New Orleans and Paris. The Marine Drive restaurant boasts Franco-American cuisine (not with indigenous touches), and we’re already thinking of the caviar-laden dishes we must be ordering, though upon first look, the interiors have us intrigued. No mass-produced lighting and barware here, we notice. The retro decor and seating is a chic interpretation of Bombay’s yesteryear art deco aesthetic, as envisioned and executed by the city’s legacy design atelier Essajees. 

 The SoBo Bread and Burnt Mac & Cheese is a must-order starter, we’re told – the former by our gourmand friend and the latter by our own impulse. The fluffy bread, swatched with the house butter and olive oil, is light, flavourful, and fresh. The carby pasta casserole, which comes garnished with finely chopped chives, can be eaten solo for a small lunch too. Good portions here. The burnt crust on the pasta’s a nice textural touch. 

The main course is where SoBo shines. The famed Chicken Paillard with caviar arrives in the form of a fried breast piece laced with an emulsified, tangy white butter (the French touch to the soul food staple) and of course, a light shower of golden caviar. We wonder why no one’s done this before – comfort food layered with luxe garnishes seems like a hack everyone should really get on with, we think. 

Other standouts include the Salmon Carpaccio and Butter Squash Ravioli – both of which carry the rich, nutty flavour of European cuisine and the heartiness of old-school Americana. The Wood Fired Sea Bass, also served with a dollop of amber caviar, is reminiscent of tandoori starters. 

Too full for more, we resolve to get through to dessert after a cocktail break. Brass & Bitters (bourbon and aperitif) and The Drawing Room (gin and limoncello, served with a side of caviar) are complex and spirit-heavy. By this time, we don’t know how much caviar we’ve had and we’re not complaining. A swig of The Drawing Room is something we’d come back for, while Brass & Bitters are for those that speak bourbon, we reckon. 

Dessert, as always, has proved to be unskippable. The doughy Fried Beignet with caviar and refreshing Burrata Ice Cream cover the duality of flavour dynamics at SoBo 20. Sugar and brine, cream and aroma. France, America and somehow – very South Bombay. 

Time Out tip: Walking distance from Churchgate Station.