One of Melbourne's oldest and most esteemed restaurants is entering a new era

If our Instagram feeds are anything to go by, a new world-class restaurant opens in Melbourne every week, and as much as we love checking out a new gem, there’s something special about dining rooms that have housed magical, life-defining meals for decades.

Florentino, standing with quiet grandeur on Bourke Street, is a prime example. Established in 1928, the grande dame of Melbourne dining has traded continuously for almost a century. Now, under the custodianship of Edition Group (the team behind Nomad and Reine and La Rue), Florentino is entering a new era.

The 80 Bourke Street address remains a three-part precinct: Florentino Dining Room, the ever-reliable Cellar Bar and the newly rechristened Café Florentino (formerly Grossi Grill). 

Upstairs, Florentino Dining Room remains the flagship. Led by chef Michael Greenlaw (formerly Ritz-Carlton Melbourne) alongside executive chef Brendan Katich, the offering is resolutely Italian. Three-, five- and seven-course menus might feature coral trout with king crab and bisque; Sher Wagyu with truffle and Chianti; or house-made caramelle stuffed with caramelised onion. The chocolate soufflé and tiramisu endure, now made with Melbourne’s own Cuvée Chocolate. It’s continuity over gimmicks – traditional fare cooked with excellent seasonal produce.

The wine program, helmed by group sommelier Steve Senturk, is a serious drawcard in its own right. With more than 1,100 bottles and up to 40 wines by the glass, the list traverses Piemonte to Sicily and beyond.

Downstairs, Café Florentino nods to the restaurant’s original 1928 identity under Rinaldo Massoni. Inspired by Tuscan grill traditions, the wood-fired grill and Josper oven turn out bistecca alla fiorentina from Gippsland’s O’Connor, Westholme Wagyu, pork tomahawks and pristine local seafood. Handmade pasta remains central, and a sharp express prix-fixe makes it a smart pre-theatre or power-lunch play.

Meanwhile, Cellar Bar continues its reign as one of Melbourne’s original all-day wine and pasta bars, with an excellent wine list, evolving amaro selection and an aperitivo hour worth skipping work for.

For more information and to make a booking, head to the website.

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