Gjelina Take Away

Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’re probably well aware that Gjelina has been slinging fantastic pizza for nearly two decades. For those who want to quell a pizza craving without the foresight of a reservation or the punishment of an absurd wait, there’s Gjelina’s Take Away right next door. Otherwise known as GTA, Gjelina’s over-the-counter offering dishes from much of its prettier sibling's menu, plus pizza by the slice. Its three-day fermented dough results in a thin, crispy, Neapolitan-style crust robust enough, without being dense, to hold the glorious base of tomato confit you’ll find on all its red pies. Here, you’ll almost always find pomodoro and margherita—plus a few more elaborate pies on rotation—by the slice. The rest of Gjelina's pies—save for one or two which aren’t served at all, like the anchovy and Magic Myrna potato—come as whole pies (either 12-inch individual or 20-inch large). I love the fennel salami and the guanciale. Of course, the squash blossom pie is a testament to both Gjelina’s pizza and vegetable prowess. Pair your slice with market greens, escarole salad when it’s in season, beef cheek orecchiette, or chunky-in-the-best-way braised meatballs. Then pull up a seat at the window counter where excellent people- and dog-watching is guaranteed.