Baldi

If you’re looking to go all out, you’ll be in good company at Baldi, where corporate cards and one-percenters reign supreme. Welcome to the Tuscan steakhouse on the ground floor of the Waldorf Astoria from Edoardo "Edo" Baldi, of the Baldi family legacy behind Giorgio Baldi in Santa Monica and e.Baldi in Beverly Hills. Dinner here is quite the spectacle, and it’s one worth splurging on if your business is paying or you’re celebrating a special occasion. First things first: The restaurant is a stunner. Though it’s inspired by Chef Baldi’s countryside home, there isn’t much countryside about it besides the olive trees, a lovely touch to ground the cavernous space. Luxury Italian villa is more like it. Gargantuan UFO-like woven lanterns loom overhead, casting a glow that extends to most guests. A green marble bar is a fine place for more than a drink, and the semi-enclosed terrace with a soothing fountain provides less of a see-and-be-seen scene. On that note, there’s a whole lot of status on display, and it’s hard to tell the actual models and rock stars from the ones who just want you to think they are. 

Service is the type you’d expect from the Waldorf Astoria: white-glove. Cocktails lean heavily into aperitivo hour while the wine list highlights Italy’s high-end labels (nothing in the red department is under $36 a glass). Food-wise, the menu touts the Etruscan philosophy of less is more. Think a shaved fennel, artichokes, and pecorino salad; steamed spinach with nothing but garlic, olive oil and lemon; and a bounty of grilled vegetables—Japanese eggplant, shishito peppers, shiitake, endive, leeks, tomatoes—piled on a platter. Roberta’s beef polpettine starter is a must. Named after Baldi’s mother, the little meatballs in a pool of traditional Italian soffritto and piquant tomato sauce show the finesse of a recipe that’s been passed down and perfected for generations. I could easily eat half a dozen on my own and call it a meal, perhaps with paccheri pomodoro. But this is a steakhouse after all, and all steaks (a selection of USDA Prime beef and a trio of Wagyu styles—American, Australian and Japanese A5) are grilled on an olive wood-fired grill, visible through the glass separating the dining room and kitchen. Everything but the Japanese Wagyu is marinated in a proprietary Italian, rosemary-forward blend that sets Baldi apart from other steakhouses, so if you prefer your steak truly unadulterated, this might not be your place. Though steak is not a requisite for a solid meal at Baldi. In fact, you might have an even better time if you keep the meat lean and focus your attention on the extensive pasta section of the menu, namely the pillowy mascarpone and sweet corn tortellini with truffle butter.