Lynx

Lynx has had the benefit of a lengthy, sleepy soft opening that has smoothed out some edges while still leaving you feeling like something’s missing. From Michelin-star chef and serial restaurateur Josh Skenes and beverage director Brandyn Tepper, this Arts District hole-in-the-wall feels like a speakeasy bar in a destination-restaurant trench coat.

The vibe: At first glance, it’s like you’re in a Japanese music video, with red lights raining down on the minimalist decor. Tables and bar seating aren’t smashed together, so you get considerably more privacy in your corner of the fairly small space than you think. Sitting by the false wall shared with Tatsu Ramen or needing to go to the bathroom shared with the brightly lit noodle spot will break the illusion, but with enough music, good conversation, and Amaro Kolas, you’ll find the fantasy takes hold.

The food: Despite a swift Bib Gourmand designation from Michelin, the razor-thin pizzas with puffy crusts are second fiddle to the drinks here. Biting into the Napoletana is like taking in water after being thrown into the Mediterranean, complete with sea-fresh anchovies (better enjoyed on the crust than adding to the capers and sea salt). Though managing to hold enough cheese for a small banquet (not to be confused with the five-cheese Sweet Chesus), the Mushroom pizza shows restraint in palate, if not in presentation, making it a messy victor on the lean menu.

The drink: Though there have already been a few seasonal rotations, you can generally count on Lynx’s riffs on the classics. Familiar drinks like old fashioneds get a smoky redux, rhubarb brings a summery lilt to your negroni, and daiquiris get a little more tart with sudachis subbing in for limes. Drinks like Banana Stand or Chocolate Springwater surprise you with subtle notes you expect to be loud, like sweetness or creaminess, and take assertive detours into umami or near-floral complexity. All drinks on their rotating menu come in at $20 and can be made without alcohol.

Time Out tip: Grab a reservation rather than dropping in for the best experience.