Yashin Ocean House is a sophisticated Japanese restaurant with a focus on what it calls ‘head to tail’ dining, so expect unusual cuts of fish and meat, from cod cheek to pork shoulder. Inside, it’s very chic. There’s swish counter-seating, intentionally peeling plaster walls – and an enormous horse-shaped lamp (yes, really).
A plate of grilled octopus came slathered in a lip-smacking butter mixed with yuzu kosho, a Japanese condiment made up of garlic, chilli, and citrus juices. A padron pepper added a refreshing edge, and there was also a handy mound of sea salt flakes to season the tentacles. The vegetable tempura, which included battered ginger root, delivered deep-fried decadence. It also has an extensive sushi selection. Although not cheap, the presentation is on point and the results delicious. A roll of fresh tuna came with a dash of fiery wasabi sauce, while the seabass maki was served with an intriguing dollop of horseradish. Service here is swift and friendly – and there’s also a good range of Japanese wines and sake.