My misty-eyed infatuation with this new wave, old school-indebted trattoria dates back to the heady days of 2023, when chef-founder Dara Klein began doing alchemical things with pasta and breadcrumbs at alt-gastropub The Compton Arms in Islington. From a tiny kitchen the Brawn and Sager and Wilde-trained chef fired out heroic plates of deceptively simple but deeply satisfying Italian food inspired by her Pugliese heritage.
Dipping into rarer regional cracks of Italian cuisine
Like every decent crush, there was a moment of jeopardy when Dara hung up her apron at the end of 2024. But there was a plan. Of course there was a plan. Such was the effusive reaction to her residency, the Italian-born, New Zealand-raised chef was off to open a restaurant of her own. And here it is, inside a gorgeously gabled Victorian boozer on the eastern fringes of Colombia Road that was once known as The Globe, and, as elder millennials may remember, Stringray Cafe, the perfect place for a comedown pizza after you’d tumbled out of a Whitechapel warehouse party hours previously.
The building has been done up, but not too done up. It still feels pubby, with a handpainted Tiella sign, 1930s-styled stained glass windows, mahogany wood-pannelling and, inexplicably, a giant portrait of Cher above the bar. As Dara sagely points out, a true trattoria is the Italian equivalent of a British pub; a welcoming hub where the community comes together over food and booze. Tiella is that to the highest degree.
Unsurprisingly, having a kitchen larger than a wardrobe has its benefits. Tiella at the Compton was good, but here it is exceptional. A more in-depth menu sees Dara dipping into rarer regional cracks of Italian cuisine, such as a pretty plate of shimmering anchovies in saor; a ye olde Venetian marinade of wine, vinegar, pine nuts, parsely, red onion and plump little sultanas, that comes on like a fishy fruit salad. Even better is an intoxicating arrangement of delicia pumpkin wedges piled high with bitter radicchio in a sweet and tangy agrodolce sauce, and placed on top of a brisk taleggio cheese fonduta with yet more sultanas. Divine.
The most surprising dish of the evening is passatelli in brodo, a chunky, dumpling-like pasta of eggs and cheese bobbing around in a meat broth. A silent assassin, it looks like something you’d use to clean the oven, but tastes like a turbo mixed grill. The dark, glistening broth, made from chicken wings and beef bones, has been tended to and cared for as if it were an elderly and much-loved family pet. Liquids this thin rarely have this much oomph, but a Thermos of this would be enough to power you for a whole weekend’s hiking in the highlands.
When it comes to signatures, Dara’s infamous chicken Milanese has survived a leap from the Compton Arms menu, and remains as good as it ever was; a bashed and breaded cutlet taking on a tag team of furiously fresh flavour via dill, fennel, celery, tarragon and crisp green apple. A squeeze of lemon ties the whole thing together.
Puddings are equally impressive. A fluffy torta caprese is neither overwhelmingly chocolatey nor too strangely savoury, while a panna cotta with Campari-infused rhubarb belies its girlish looks thanks to a butch and mysterious bay leaf infusion.
Tiella is what eating out is all about: the warmest of welcomes, a subtle dose of glamour, incredible food, and the vague sense that nothing much else matters beyond the restaurant’s front door. A triumph.
The vibe A homely pub tarted up with 1960s vintage decor and cosy candles.
The food Regional Italian dishes cooked with care and flair.
The drink Great Italian (as well as French and Austrian) wines, as well as cocktails - try the fabulous blood orange margarita – spritzes, pints and softies.
Time Out tip The bar area is always reserved for walk-ins. If you can’t secure a booking, chance your arm on a drop-in perch, where the full food menu is available.