Miokuru is the latest addition to London’s burgeoning roster of hand roll restaurants. Though its Soho location and sleek, moody interiors seem to promise a more grown-up take on the traditional temaki experience, where sushi rolls are prepared for customers on demand, there seemed to be a sense that there was still a bit of maturing to do.
The preparation of the rice - the real test of any good sushi establishment - was on point
The 20-seat counter restaurant is undoubtedly atmospheric, with modern and contemporary backdrop, weaving in Japanese design elements such as latticework ceilings. Staff are friendly, kind and knowledgeable - and, as evidenced by the excellent knifework demonstrated directly in front of you, clearly skilled and talented. But the experience begins to feel a little off-kilter with some of the more trend-led gambles with flavour. A starter of pressed and dressed hand-dived British scallops is drowned out by heavy-handed use of chilli oil which overpowers the delicate flesh which has been reduced to a pulp. It might have worked better if the scallops were left whole, or if there was less chilli oil. It feels like a misstep, especially when compared to the excellently prepared hamachi aburi (seared yellowtail) and tuna akami (tuna with caviar).
While the starters are made for sharing, temaki is a much more personal experience. Once ordered, they arrive thick and fast. But rolls served were often presented with a different name from the one on the menu, resulting in a to-ing and fro-ing reminiscent of a teenager crashing around at a family ceilidh, rather than the intricately choreographed service expected from a place at this location and price point. The negi toro (otoro tuna tartare) was great, but some of the creative choices on some of the hand rolls felt a bit too try-hard; seared beef and bone marrow maki had the addition of furikake (a seaweed condiment that is also increasingly finding its way into various recipes and restaurants currently) that felt distracting from the subtle flavour of the bone marrow. The preparation of the temaki itself was also a hit-or-miss - perhaps in an attempt to appeal to customers who might want to photograph the maki, it was often overfilled as to spill out from the other side. Although that might only be off-putting to the purists, and not the ‘camera eats first’ crowd. That being said, the quality of the nori and the preparation of the rice - the real test of any good sushi establishment - was on point.
Only time will tell whether these are teething pains for Miokuru. Some of the choices feel self-conscious and disparate. Their slogan of ‘British born, Japanese inspired’ and the focus on ingredients sourced from British producers was a big draw - but (despite the list of British producers printed on the menu), upon further questioning a lot of the ingredients were sourced from Spain, even as far away as Hokkaido.
Which is a shame because there is a lot to like about Miokuru - the ingredients are excellent, the chefs are skilled, and the drinks fantastic. A wide range of sakes and natural wines - the inclusion of several Kanpai sakes, which are brewed in London, felt like a solidly aligned brand choice.
A real highlight were the desserts - seasonal sorbets with meringue, and a divine matcha mousse with granola.
In Japanese, Miokuru is a verb that is often employed with departures or a farewell. It’s bittersweet, but also filled with hope. There is still greatness to be found at Miokuru, and I left with anticipation for it to come into its own.
The vibe Sleek and modern hand rolls with a bit of an edge.
The food Japanese inspired handrolls, seafood starters and desserts.
The drink Locally sourced sake, natural wines and fun cocktails.
Time Out tip There is an intimate ten-seat cocktail bar, perfect for private events.