With the nearby rebirth of Singburi, this unassuming Shoreditch newbuild is turning into the culinary equivalent of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, with the legendary Thai outlet gaining a new nextdoor neighbour in Legado. Led by Nieves Barragán Mohacho, the visionary chef behind Mayfair’s Sabor (which was awarded a Michelin star in 2018), this stylish Spanish outlet is inspired by everything from her Basque childhood to her illustrious London career.
Nieves’ latest addition to her own legacy is a triumph
You enter Legado under a fluted arched ceiling straight into a lively bar, typical of an atmospheric taberna. It’s immediately a vibe: the embrace of a warmly lit, open-air kitchen, centred around two aromatic, wood fired ovens roasting lamb and suckling pig. The sleek interiors are instantly calming: shades of maroon and dark wood, reminiscent of a Mediterranean evening and full bodied glasses of sangria.
As you peruse the menu, you’re invited to try Legado’s ‘3-sip serves’: light, low alcohol cocktails served in elegant ceramics, to awaken your tastebuds while you salivate over the enticingly broad menu. I’d recommend the refreshing rhubarb and bonanto, a white wine based aperitif. An unmissable starter is the quisquillas de cadiz: raw bodied shrimps with crunchy, cooked heads, drizzled in a tantalising mix of olive oil, soy sauce, sesame oil, lime juice and zest. The Legado sandwich is another must-order, inspired by Nieves’ grandmother: consisting of Swiss chard, cecina (Spanish cured beef) and smoked cheese, woven together with fried breadcrumbs.
The headliner is unmistakably the quarter Segovian suckling pig - which is tied for the most expensive item on the menu, alongside milk fed lamb at a hefty £85. Central London has long-skewed perceptions of what normal costing should be, but this is the ultimate indulgent self-treat: the depth of flavour, tenderness of the meat and salty umami of the crackling skin is an unforgettable combination.
It would be a crime to miss out on their lengthy dessert menu: where I paired deep-fried churros, dipped in a richly spiced chocolate sauce, with saffron ice cream and white chocolate mousse drizzled in olive oil and decorated with roasted pistachios. Truly a showstopper end to the meal.
In a city where tapas is still undoubtedly the face of mainstream Spanish dining, Legado makes for an intriguing journey into the country’s wider culinary diversity, with padron peppers and croquettes nowhere to be seen. Delivered with stellar presentation, service and quality, not to mention style and grace, Nieves’ latest addition to her own legacy is a triumph.
The vibe: Trendy Shoreditch date night or feasting with friends against a buzzing backdrop of an open-air kitchen.
The food: An extensive Spanish menu showcasing nose-to-tail animal roasts and seafood spreads, mixing grandeur and glamour with homely, heartfelt recipes.
The drink: Playful‘three-sip’ cocktails come served in handmade ceramics, alongside an impressive wine list.
Time Out tip: While the sit-down tables are reserved for bookings, their counter kitchen seats are open for walk-ins, and arguably give you the best, front-row view in the house.