For Londoners of a certain age - or those in possession of a Coutts bank account - the name Langan’s is synonymous with martini-fuelled long lunches and intoxicating celebrity glamour. Opened in 1976 by debauched restaurateur Peter Langan and actor Michael Caine, the Mayfair brassiere became a byword for a certain kind of decadence. A ritzy hangout for the likes of Jerry Hall, Elizabeth Taylor and Marlon Brando, Langan’s was it.
Langan’s French-leaning offering is made up of classics and crowd pleasers
Half a century later, and proceedings are somewhat less headline-grabbing, but still as endearing camp. If ever a building could be described as ‘showbiz’, it would be Langan’s, which is also the only London restaurant with official tube signage directing you all the way from Green Park station towards the front door. Passing the iconic red neon, you’ll enter a contemporary take on the disco era; there’s a gleaming, mirrored bar, gold column lamps on green marble tables, fluted glass chandeliers and suited waitstaff with different colour blazers denoting rank greeting regulars with an easy charm. Though most of the restaurant’s original art collection was sold off at auction in 2012, the walls are lined with newer prints and paintings by a who’s-who of modern art, with appearances by everyone from one-time regular David Hockney through to Tracey Emin, Peter Doig and David Shrigley.
Langan’s French-leaning offering is made up of classics and crowd pleasers, with the likes of shellfish cocktail, dressed crab, fish pie, posh bangers and mash and Dover sole vying for supremacy on a menu that seems largely untouched since Peter Langan’s heyday, with the small exception of vegan ceviche.
We begin with bite-size rosti; a cube of pressed potato, topped with a quenelle of caviar, before embarking on beef tartare prepared tableside. This is our first sign that portions here are generous in the extreme. Powerfully fleshy and with a Bloody Mary richness, we ask for it spicy and what arrives humbles the palate, heat lingering on the tongue as our chicken Kyiv is delivered. It’s a solid thing, with a nicely crispy crumb on the outside, and dumped on a pile of buttery mash. There’s so much gravy that we can’t really tell if the garlic butter oozes like it should, and the pancetta in the cabbage is a touch on the bouncy size. But my god do you get your money’s worth. Even bigger are the mammoth portions of beef wellington and giant slabs of fish and chips that are delivered to the table next to mine.
After all that, we can only manage a ‘light’ pudding of strawberries and cream. Which turns out to be a giant pewter chalice stuffed with fruit. They don’t really make them like this any more, and there are many reasons why, but Langan’s has most certainly carved out its place in the London dining history books.
The vibe A classic 1970s Mayfair brasserie with a loyal old school fanbase.
The food French fare and classic bistro dishes.
The drink The martinis come thick and fast and there’s a big, beautiful wine list.
Time Out tip The set menu offers two courses for £25 or three for £30. Not a bad deal for the middle of Mayfair.