Gunpowder

Gunpowder’s first restaurant opened in 2015 in Spitalfields, and was promptly awarded the Michelin Bib Gourmand. A decade on, and the Soho branch holds all the gravitas of its original location. With attention paid to the tiniest of details, this classy small plates restaurant - which takes inspiration from all across India - is well worth ditching Dishoom for.

French bean pakora is the first of many fried, but somehow still light, starters

The elegance of the moody, marble-accented restaurant establishes it immediately as a cut above. If you’re not impressed by the extensive wine selection, then how about the live pianist or charming service from white-jacketed wait staff? Warning: the ultra low-lighting may have your grandad taking out his phone torch to read the menu.

French bean pakora is the first of many fried, but somehow still light, starters. Paired with a selection of tangy chutneys, these frites could easily be eaten by the bucketful, alongside Indo-Chinese prawn toast, souped up with fermented Bengali Kasundi mustard. We also tried the kale and buna aubergine with goat cheese. Kale may not sound like the most obvious treat food, but this crispy salad will have you craving more. While the spicy goat cheese dressing is difficult to access underneath piles of leaves, it’s worth the mess for a creamy, crunchy bite. My lemon cardamom gimlet was the perfect reprieve from the heat of the salad, though the ginger and cucumber spritz makes for a suitable non-alcoholic alternative. 

Next, comes aloo chaat, kawari soft shell crab and miso cabbage skewer. All were outstanding, but the aloo chaat was the clear winner. Soft and light, the softness of the spuds contrasted neatly with the crunch of pomegranate seeds.

Dessert options are limited, but the two on offer are so good that you don’t need more. I thought that the molten chocolate cake with masala chai custard would be my favourite, but the rum pudding’s soft, sweet cake drenched in custard took an unexpected lead. The chocolate cake was simply an elite version of a classic, but the rum pudding is truly distinct. 

Over a decade on from opening, Gunpowder runs the risk of being forgotten in lieu of flashy new spots. But from its mastery of fried food, to its luxe, cordial atmosphere, the Soho location demonstrates why the restaurant has stayed buzzing for so long. 

The vibe Low lit, high-end luxury in Soho.  

The food Indian small plates, with a few mains. 

The drink Delicate cocktails and an extensive wine collection. 

Time Out tip Keep the dip from the prawn toast for your French bean pakora – it’s too good to waste.