It is impossible not to be impressed by Cicoria’s location. In fact, people have been wowed by this London landmark for well over 150 years. For Angela Hartnett’s latest project – seasonal Italian cookery from a pleasingly short menu – it’s nothing but the best; an open plan space on the top floor of the majestic Royal Opera House.
That said, it’s kind of a mission to actually find Cicoria. First, a bag check at doors, then a dash through a capacious lobby, next a staircase, then the final boss of a giant escalator.
We can’t remember the last time we were in a restaurant where people were wearing gowns
Cicoria is meant to appeal as much to those who aren’t seeing a show here as those that are. Yet it’s going to be hard to attract the crowds when there’s no street-facing shopfront to tempt passing trade inside. In fact, if you’re in Covent Garden and seeking a Harnett hit, then Cafe Murano is but a two minute walk away in the house where Thomas de Quincy wrote drug-fuelled romp Confessions of An English Opium Eater, which has a much more intoxicating curb appeal. Want food directly from the spatula of Angela herself? Then heave off to Mayfair and her Michelin-star scoring Murano, still one of the finest Italian restaurants in the country.
It is, however, hard to beat Cicoria’s buzzy sprawl, and the dramatic views across the historic piazza. There’s also something deeply appealing about eating in a theatre, from the excitement when the stage bell rings, to the fact that everyone’s dressed up to the nines. We can’t remember the last time we were in a restaurant where people were wearing gowns.
Young staff are charming and helpful, but Harnett is not in the kitchen, and it shows. Sausage-stuffed, deep fried olives are great - the perfect pint snack - but limp focaccia is dry and needs salt, while a starter of halibut crudo allegedly cured with citrus also needs a kick up the flavour arse, tasting mainly of nothing, despite a hefty pile of fennel shavings to accompany it. Better is a salad of treviso radicchio, with sweet figs and cooked shallots balancing the bitter leaves.
It’s all serviceable stuff, but lacking punch and personality. Lobster linguine is heavy on the tomatoes and light on the lobster, while breaded lamb cutlets are fun, but come with a strangely sweet caponata. Of course, the tiramisu is perfect, light, fluffy, not too rich. A few tweaks, and Cicoria has the promise to be as impressive as the building it’s in.
The vibe Grown-up theatre goers in a flashy Royal Opera House space.
The food A short menu of seasonal Italian dishes, with pasta primi and meaty secondi.
The drink Lots of Italian wine, aperitivo and a short cocktail list.
Time Out tip Ask for a table near the view of Covent Garden’s historic piazza.