Undoubtedly Lisbon's best bar decor, courtesy of Luís Pinto Coelho. The warren of rooms is lined with floor-to-ceiling glass cases stuffed with toy battleships, eastern European army officers' hats and other grim ornaments. This museum of kitsch is not cheap, but it's definitely worth a look. The back room is an atmospheric setting for a frame of pool. Another bar designed by the same man, Procópio (Alto de São Francisco 21A, 21 385 2851) near Amoreiras, has an extraordinary Wild West saloon-meets-musty museum feel.