The city's only dedicated jazz venue, this is one of Europe's most venerable clubs and it consistently draws the best local and foreign performers. It's actually now next door to its original premises, after a fire a few years ago, but the spirit is just as strong. There are jam sessions on Tuesdays and Wednesdays and paying concerts on other nights. The club has its own jazz school and the best students (and professors) often perform, sometimes as an orchestra, which is worth catching. All in all, musical satisfaction is pretty much guaranteed and the suitably laid-back atmosphere is helped by the pouffes scattered about.