December is a magical month in Helsinki. As the first snowfall dusts the streets, a crisp white frost veils the trees, and the whole city hums with anticipation for Christmas. That is, when the weather gods are feeling generous. They aren’t always.
The sky might just as well dump cold rain on you, and everything can feel wrapped in darkness, with the sun rising late and setting early. At least the Christmas lights in the city centre offer a bit of cheer.
Even Father Christmas himself may start wondering whether it’s time to retire to the tropics – much as many Finns do.
And then, at the very moment of deepest despair, the weather turns again and Helsinki reveals itself as the perfect Christmas city. The air has that refreshing bite of frost, the ground is white, and the sky glows a clear, brilliant blue.
So December in Helsinki is a bit of a lottery. It can be a triumph – or a total flop.
Helsinki’s festive season comes with its own set of traditions: bustling Christmas markets, the candlelit Lucia Day celebrations, a host of concerts, the Winter Circus – and even the legendary Boxing day dances after the holidays.
And for something truly unexpected, there’s even an international beach volleyball tournament held right in the middle of the winter chill (indoors, thankfully). We’re still waiting for the day Finns invent actual snow volleyball – after all, this is the country that already plays swamp football in the warmer months.
Here are the very best ways to celebrate Christmas – and the whole festive season – in Helsinki.