Shii

The first thing you notice is the white napkins. Pressed, starched and folded into a precise line, they sit in front of the empty places along a beautiful wooden counter. Beside them are wooden chopsticks. On the surface, the room feels calm, but underneath there is a definite sense of anticipation. Everything about the space – and the courteous welcome – suggests that something special is about to happen.

Behind the counter, the chefs begin their preparations with quiet precision. Bowls and ingredients are arranged into place.

Shii is a Japanese-style omakase restaurant, where guests sit at the counter and eat an 11-course surprise menu prepared right in front of them. Loosely translated, omakase means ‘I’ll leave it up to you’. The whole idea is built on trust: the diner gives up control and puts the decisions in the chef’s hands. In return, the chef creates the best meal they can.

There is room for 15 guests at a time, with two sittings each evening.

There are very few decisions to make here beyond what you would like to drink, and whether you want to add one of the restaurant’s more luxurious extras, such as wagyu beef or tuna belly.

Then the pace begins to pick up. Smoke rises from the reed-fired grill and head chef Nadim Nasser starts slicing the fish. The experience feels a little like theatre, with every gesture and knife stroke seemingly considered, but there is room for improvisation too. Nasser and the other chefs are happy to chat if you ask about the food. Ask about the seasoning cress, for example, and they may hand you the root to inspect more closely.

Even the wasabi is made properly here, grated from fresh root in front of the diners.

The dishes begin to arrive, each one excellent and distinct enough from the last. There is lightly reed-smoked hamachi, scallop seared on the surface, silky Japanese egg custard chawanmushi, a delicate noodle dish and a near-perfect miso soup.

There are no Japanese staff members, and some dishes take small liberties with strict Japanese tradition. On our visit, caviar appeared in several courses – even dessert. And it worked beautifully.

What matters is that the restaurant never strays from the clean, restrained core of Japanese cooking. Everything is subtle and balanced. Ingredients are allowed to taste of themselves, with technique used to reveal their character rather than disguise it. While even some of Helsinki’s best restaurants can sometimes overdo the sauces, flourishes and elaborate plating, there is something deeply satisfying about the stripped-back aesthetic here.

Unnecessary theatrics are deliberately avoided. Knife work could easily be turned into a show, but thankfully it is not. The fish is sliced in front of you, but in an understated, very Japanese way. The restraint itself becomes impressive.

The most dramatic moments come when the sushi is served. Nasser places each piece directly into the diners’ hands. It is a beautiful, intimate moment, almost ceremonial. ‘Here, take my gift,’ he seems to be saying.

Within Finland, Shii feels like a completely singular experience – even though it is not. Helsinki actually has two other omakase restaurants. And that is a good thing, because the meal at Shii is so polished that it leaves you curious to compare. Can something this good be even better?

The first dedicated omakase restaurant in Helsinki was L’Atitude, which opened in 2021 and is led by Vietnamese-born chef Lucas Hoang. Dinner costs €119, with drinks on top. The most expensive of the three is Hanayagi Omakase, run by a Japanese chef, where dinner costs €150.

Shii is the least expensive at €99. That is still a lot of money, of course, but considering the quality of the food and the experience as a whole, the value feels entirely justified. Shii is unquestionably worth the price.

Atmosphere Sophisticated but relaxed.

Drinks Wine and beer are available, but this is a good place to explore Japanese sake.

Food A varied and beautifully judged journey through Japanese flavours.

Time Out tip You can add a few extra courses to the meal, such as tuna belly tartare with caviar (€20) or Kagoshima wagyu (€30). We particularly recommend the Japanese wagyu if you have never tried it before. It is an extraordinary little steak: perfectly marbled, seared on the outside and almost impossibly soft and rich within.