Ariel

I had barely finished complaining to my friends about Helsinki’s inability to create inviting restaurant spaces in its new residential districts when I visited Ariel.

Yes, these developments have plenty of ground-floor commercial units. But how many house restaurants compelling enough to draw diners from the other side of the city? Where, I had demanded, were the places with character, interesting architecture and a view?

At Ariel, everything falls into place. This is exactly the kind of restaurant I have been hoping to find in Helsinki’s newest neighbourhoods.

Ariel occupies a handsome contemporary timber building. Through its windows and from its welcoming terrace, the city unfolds in layers: the new apartment blocks of Sompasaari, the historic waterfront of Pohjoisranta and the rooftops of Katajanokka. Straight ahead rise the towers of Helsinki Cathedral, Uspenski Cathedral and St John’s Church. Next door, Suvilahti’s monumental former power station looms like an enormous modern sculpture.

Perfect.

Even so, it took me a while to visit. I had studied Ariel’s short menu, composed largely of Finnish classics, and wondered: who needs yet another bowl of salmon soup? You can find it practically everywhere in Helsinki.

Ariel, however, claims that its version is the best in town. Having finally tasted it, I am prepared to say that the restaurant delivers on its promise. Yes, it is even better than the much-lauded version at Fisken på Disken.

For a moment, all I could do was fall silent and enjoy it

Ariel’s salmon soup demonstrates how much can be done with a familiar dish without forcing it to become something else entirely. The potatoes are cooked in a dill-infused broth, while the salmon is roasted until beautifully succulent. Fresh roe and crisp roasted salmon skin complete the dish.

The broth is – naturally – poured over the ingredients at the table with a touch of theatre. Creaminess takes a supporting role, while dill oil brings freshness and balance. You will want to spoon up every last drop.

There is a great deal of technique on display, yet none of it feels like showmanship for its own sake. Every element earns its place.

The same care is evident in the starters. Ariel’s Toast Skagen was the best I have eaten in Helsinki – in fact, perhaps the best I can remember eating anywhere. On a slice of toasted levain bread, the richness of the dressing met the freshness of the prawns. Roe added delicate pops of salinity, dill brought fragrance and mustard seeds provided just the right sharp kick. The generously sized prawns had the perfect texture: firm yet succulent.

Paired with a well-chosen white wine, the Skagen became an almost flawless experience. For a moment, all I could do was fall silent and enjoy it – although part of me wanted to burst into song.

The Skagen left the menu for its winter break shortly after my visit, but fortunately the tartare remains. It, too, has real character. The meat tastes remarkably clean and fresh, crisp potato chips add texture, and caper mustard and pickled onion can be added to taste. A Dutch craft beer recommended with the dish proved an excellent match.

Dessert continues the theme. Ariel’s version of köyhät ritarit – Finland’s answer to French toast – elevates another classic without sacrificing its comforting soul. Made using surplus cinnamon buns, the dish resembles a deconstructed korvapuusti. Vanilla ice cream, strawberry sauce, fresh strawberries and mint keep the indulgent dessert tasting fresh. It may just be the best cinnamon bun in Helsinki, even if it no longer looks like one.

Ariel’s philosophy is simple: do a small number of things, and do them perfectly. Behind the restaurant is Kristian Vuojärvi, who has also led Finland’s national culinary team.

For anyone who wants to experience Finnish food at its very best – if not always at its most traditional – this is unquestionably Helsinki’s finest destination.

Praise for Ariel’s meatballs drifted over from the neighbouring table. “They’re absolutely brilliant,” the delighted diners told their waiter.

I do not doubt it. I left the restaurant in an unusually euphoric mood.

Atmosphere: Ariel describes itself as Kalasatama’s meeting place, and it plays the part beautifully. The dining room has soaring ceilings, and the service is warm and heartfelt.

Food: The concise menu focuses on Finnish classics, prepared here better than anywhere else in Helsinki.

Drink: The carefully considered drinks pairings complement the food exceptionally well.

Time Out tip: Brunch is served on Saturdays. We have yet to try it, but expectations are high.