You might expect a boutique hotel stay in a tiny, quiet southern Maltese village to be a bit sleepy, but that is precisely the point. With barely a shop or restaurant in sight, Palazzo Castagna lets you truly switch off and make the space feel like your own. Expect soaring ceilings, elegant rooms and plenty of personal touches – and an experience that feels more like staying in a centuries-old home than a hotel.
Why stay at Palazzo Castagna?
If you’re after the side of Malta that doesn’t make it into the guidebooks, this place is for you. Palazzo Castagna lets you step straight into centuries of Maltese life in rural Ħal Għaxaq. That’s pronounced ‘Hal ash-a’ – remember that when you’re ordering a taxi.
Built in 1755 and long held by the Castagna family, the palazzo has now been lovingly restored by husband-and-wife team Rudolph and Alison Spiteri Sacco. History remains in its original stonework and period features, while the renovated space feels thoroughly inviting. A bright, leafy internal courtyard features former animal drinking troughs cleverly converted into plant pots, and an original, centuries-old wall with an emblem crest dating back to the Knights of Malta era.
Head upstairs to the rooftop pool, which offers views over the main square beneath the imposing Parish Church of the Assumption of Mary, the village’s centrepiece which comes alive for dinners, processions and the highly-anticipated February carnival.
What are the rooms like at Palazzo Castagna Malta?
We stayed in one of the hotel’s seven suites, and they’re definitely worth the splurge. All 26 rooms are modern and spacious, but the suites come with a large outdoor terrace with sun loungers, which is a lovely spot for a morning coffee or pre-dinner drink in complete seclusion. There’s even your very own hot tub, which sits outdoors in the shadow of the parish church.
The bathroom is generous, with his-and-hers sinks, and the bed is incredibly comfortable, piled with plush pillows. We also loved scoping out the artwork throughout the corridors and in our room – each piece captures distinctly Maltese scenes (you can see the price via a QR code).
What’s the food like at Palazzo Castagna?
Palazzo Castagna serves up a proper buffet breakfast from 7.30-10am in a beautifully restored salon which used to be a chapel – look up for its intricate details, all 1800s frescoes and grand ceilings. The spread itself is a treat too, packed with high-quality Maltese goodies: local cheeses like Gbejna, cured meats and Maltese sausage, fruit, pastries, cereals, and a lovely section just for different honeys. There’s a hot station for omelettes and the likes, made in front of you, and lots of freshly squeezed juice, smoothies, coffee and teas.
Come evening, in summer, the rooftop by the pool is the place to be. The menu is fun, a mix of Asian twists, stacked burgers, pinsas and hearty pasta dishes with seafood, with lovely wine recommended by the excellent sommelier – all while watxhing the sun sink over the village. If you’re lucky, you might stumble into an impromptu tasting like we did.
What else is on offer at Palazzo Castagna?
Few people can probably say they’ve gone for a dip in an underground World War II bomb shelter, but hey, now I can. Book a private slot at reception, make your way through the courtyard and down an underground maze, and voila, you’re at a small swimming pool just for you. The level of detail in this underground renovation is totally mind-boggling but nothing short of incredible. As for gyms or spas, you won’t find those here, but between the underground pool, the rooftop pool with surrounding hot tubs, and a living-room-style coffee bar, you’re not short of spots to relax and unwind here.
What’s the service like at Palazzo Castagna?
Things run very smoothly here. Housekeeping is attentive and happy to help whenever needed. The reception team can assist with transport or local recommendations, and they’re always really friendly and approachable whenever you pass by the entrance. Absolute props go to Adam Gaskin, the hotel manager, who is everywhere at once guiding staff, welcoming guests, answering calls, and even overseeing the restaurant – while somehow remembering perfectly how you like your coffee for breakfast. Nothing is ever too much trouble for him, and he’s never without a smile.
What’s the area like around Palazzo Castagna?
A 15-minute drive from Malta Airport takes you through flat, open fields peppered with churches and chapels, revealing a lived-in side of southern Malta that hasn’t been polished up for postcards. Hal Għaxaq itself is a traditional village, complete with the odd stray cat lounging on a doorstep, fruit and vegetable vans rolling by, and plenty of photo opportunities around every corner, like old red British phone booths filled with books or a house entirely decorated with shells (Id-dar tal-bebbux). You won’t find many restaurants or shops around Ħal Għaxaq, but just ten minutes down the road, Marsaxlokk is home to the island’s best fish restaurants and its packed to the gills Sunday morning fish market.
Village life moves at a gentle pace here, but there’s still plenty to do. Head to the coast and hop on a boat from Marsaxlokk to St Peter’s Pool, a natural swimming hole sculpted from the cliffs that shot to fame thanks to its viral diving dog, Titti, who might even make an appearance if you’re lucky. Or book a wine tour at the nearby Delicata Winery and sample some of Malta’s finest local vintages.
Why you should book a stay at Palazzo Castagna
I’d recommend Palazzo Castagna if you want a side of Malta that feels a world away from the usual tourist crowds. Hidden away in the south of the island, it’s got that boutique hotel appeal, with thoughtful details like handwritten welcome cards, spot-on local recommendations, and attentive service that make it feel considered and welcoming. After a day exploring village streets or navigating the island, it’s exactly the kind of place you’re happy to flop back into.
Address: 52 Santa Marija, Ħal Għaxaq (Ghaxaq), Malta, GXQ 1712
Price: Starting at around €130 per night
Closest transport: Malta International Airport is a 10-minute drive away
Book now: Via Booking.com