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Review
The Witchery is a hotel that casts a spell. Perched at the top of the Royal Mile, just outside the gates to Edinburgh Castle, this one-of-a-kind property is a medieval fantasy of draped velvet, winding stone staircases and secret passageways. There are just nine intensely theatrical suites here, and each one has its own personality – from the gothic Library to the dramatic Armoury. It’s a bucket list hotel, but it’s dripping in opulence. Anywhere else, it might even probably feel too much – but housed within its ornate 16th century buildings in one of the world’s witchiest cities, The Witchery is an immersive, romantic experience that’s also a wicked good time.
The nine suites at The Witchery are so individualised that they’re a bit hard to describe in blanket statements – but each of them is overflowing with antique treasures in centuries-old rooms.
I stayed in the Vestry Suite which was located off of the seventeenth-century Jollie’s Close. After walking through the narrow close and up an ancient staircase, I entered my room and found a small vestibule leading to another staircase. Up that second, private staircase, a door opened onto a baroque space dripping with gold, velvet and dark wood. A pipe organ served as the bed’s headboard, a marble table was set for two and a secret door opened into a smaller room with a large soaking tub. There were also two bejeweled crowns placed precariously on gilded pedestals. In short: quiet luxury, this was not. When you awaken each morning, you’ll probably feel like you’re in Game of Thrones – or you’ve got a magical jousting tournament at 10am.
The hotel’s main dining space, The Witchery at the Castle, is an Edinburgh institution. It is deeply romantic, and like the rest of the hotel, deeply magical. You sit at candle-lit tables, surrounded by dark oak paneling from the sixteenth century, and the food is elevated, regional specialities: Scottish lobster, haggis, beef and lamb – kicked off with fat Scottish oysters. There’s also an extensive and award-winning wine list. In the summer months, you can enjoy the lovely Secret Garden dining room, located on a secluded terrace in the back courtyard. I would also highly recommend reserving breakfast in the main dining room during your stay. The white table cloth experience was the only time I’ve ever had a candlelit breakfast.
Located just outside the gates of Edinburgh Castle, The Witchery has one of the most enviable locations in the city. It shares the notable area with a number of worthwhile attractions including the excellent Cannonball Restaurant and the informative Scotch Whisky Experience tour. The hotel itself takes its name from the hundreds of people burned at the stake for witchcraft on Castle Hill and there’s a small fountain memorial to the victims around the corner from the hotel. You’ll also most likely see a line of people waiting to get into the neighboring Witchery Shop, an enchantingly well-curated space. Inside, you’ll find bespoke leather goods, beautiful books, Scottish heritage brands and bottles of The Witchery’s own line of champagne. It’s perfect for stocking up for a romantic night in.
Address: 352 Castlehill, Edinburgh EH1 2NF, United Kingdom
Price per night: Prices start at around £450 per night.
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