The first major Mughal war of succession, fought in 1658–1659 between Mughal emperor Shah Jahan's four sons, was one of the bloodiest, most dramatic family feuds in history – it makes the HBO show Succession look like a bedtime story in comparison. It's not as well-known, though, that battle lines were drawn up among sisters, too, who each picked a brother to back. Roshanara Begum, for whom this garden is named, picked the winning side. She helped catapult her brother Aurangzeb to victory, and went on to become one of the most powerful women in his empire...all the way until they had a falling out, too, and she was banished to this garden for the rest of her days (or so some historians say). Well, anyway – it's the sort of succulent gossip that adds several layers of intrigue to what initially looks like just another Mughal pleasure garden.
The garden, commissioned by the princess for herself in the 1650s, spans 57 acres and follows a traditional quadrilateral design. At its heart lies the Begum's tomb – an incandescent white marble structure, teased out in intricate jaali or latticework, surrounded by lawns lined with trees that stretch on and on. This garden is very much unlike other heritage spots in the city. It isn't ticketed, and never ever sees the big crowds that other locations draw. It's quiet, lazy; it runs just wild enough to escape the uncanny perfection that's a hallmark of over-manicured gardens. Trios of women lay here in the winter sun or summer shade chatting about their hassles; men play cards, and children run around, laughing. It's very much locally claimed and loved, making for a quiet, restorative afternoon.
It's also home to the historic and once-elite Roshanara Club, which is considered to be the birthplace of Indian cricket, where greats like Virat Kohli have trained in the nets. The club was closed for refurbishment, but has recently been restored, and is open to the public once more.